Five fairly luxurious new Council flats are coming to the car park behind The Crown on Lavender Hill

Back in 2019, we reported on plans to build a bundle of new Council-owned housing and flats – mostly on bits of car parking in the Gideon Road Estate just north of Lavender hill. These were quite ambitious plans, and a rare example of new-build Council housing – partly designed to accommodate people moved out of the Winstanley Estate as it was redeveloped, and partly designed to provide the sort of accommodation that’s quite rare in the Borough, like wheelchair-accessible flats or flats with the space to accommodate large families needing many bedrooms. The plans were split in to three phases, the first of which was for lots of houses and flats at the western end of Gideon Road, which have now been built – we’ve published lots of photos of the end result here.

The second phase of the original plans was for three flats and a three-bedroom house to be built where there’s currently a row of eleven garages in the sunken car park area behind The Crown pub. The originally planned building is shown above (the lighter-coloured bricks are the house). Unfortunately the first phase took way longer than expected to get going – not helped by the Coronavirus causing mayhem in the construction sector – and the second part of the project never got built; the planning permission for the development that was approved back in 2016 has now ‘timed out’.

The Council has gone back to the drawing board, and now plans to build something a bit different and rather larger in the same spot. The house is gone, as is the block of three flats: instead, we’re likely to see a single building with five flats. Two of them are on the ground floor – a one-bed flat, and a large four-bed flat, both with small private gardens, and provision for two street trees to be added to make the car parking area a bit less of a concrete wasteland. There are then three duplex flats on the first and second floor (a one-bed, a two-bed and a three-bed), each with a private balcony. This is a substantially larger build than what was previously planned for the site, hence why there are now five properties rather than four (and larger properties too, with a total of 11 bedrooms rather than 7) – but it’s fair to say it is also a cleverer approach, solving quite a few issues that had become apparent with the previous design.

The original plans created a small, dark and hidden away garden for one of the ground floor flats, next to the staircase leading down from Tipthorpe Road, which was clearly never going to work for plants, and which was so tucked away that it had the feel of being a burglar’s hideaway in the making. The original plan also broke up the estate car parking provision, with two of the existing open-air spaces visible on the right on the photo below replaced by a bin shed and moved to a spot hidden away in the same corner – creating the sort of place a car break in would be a racing certainty! These have been done away with in the new design.

One of the most ingenious and – on reflection – maybe obvious changes, is that the new building uses the difference in height between Tipthorpe Road and Gideon Road to have two level step-free entrances, with the two lower-level flats accessed from the Gideon Road car park, and the three upper flats accessed via a short corridor from a front entrance at the end of Tipthorpe Road (shown in grey at the top left of the first floor floorplan below). By doing this, it provides a ‘ground floor’ access to every flat without needing a lift or a shared internal staircase.

The three upper flats are all duplex (two-floor) ones, with internal staircases, but generous living spaces at the entrance level. They’re nicely designed properties with lots of living space and light, and in an unusual but welcome move, the flats include small rooms for storage, about the size of a large airing cupboard. These used to come as standard in 1970s Council accommodation but are very rare in an age where every square foot gets costed out and chopped to the bare minimum by property developers. The flats will have heat pumps for heating, as well as solar panels on the roof.

The entrance on to Tipthorpe Road will create a clearer ‘end’ to the road, shown above – with the existing staircase down to the car park set to be rebuilt to a slightly wider width and with a longer middle landing – ensuring the staircase isn’t all hidden away behind the building, but also creating a handy space underneath for the sprinkler tanks and electrical supply for the building. The existing ramp running from Tipthorpe Road towards the rest of the estate and the playground is also set to be retained, albeit in a slightly more tucked away form running between two buildings rather than as the current wide open balcony arrangement (but is likely to be closed for quite some time during the building works – as we saw with the first phase of the new development on the estate where the flats facing the works had to put up with narrow temporary walkways with poor visibility round the corners, that felt rather unsafe at night, for several years).

By and large, this is a decently thought through development that has clearly had some time and effort spent on it, and which is creating five impressively good quality Council-owned flats in a bit of the Gideon Road estate that’s not particularly lovely at the moment. By turning a neglected corner in to new homes – and homes that look set to be fairly smartly presented and well integrated to the layout of the wider estate – these plans seem unlikely to be especially controversial.

Not that it will please everyone: there’s no getting away from the fact that this is quite a large building to be adding on an already dense estate, and its immediate neighbours – especially the flat at the back of 100 Lavender Hill, and the next door terrace at No.1 Pountney Road, are likely to find their views are more enclosed. Parking will likely also be a concern, given that the development is for five flats, including a specially designed wheelchair-accessible flat, with no associated parking at all. This is realistically likely to mean the loss of at least one of the adjacent estate’s existing parking spaces to become a dedicated disabled space (which comes on top of the loss of the 11 garages being removed at this site and the 35 garages that were recently demolished to make way for the linked Gideon Road development), adding to the pressure for car parking in a spot where it’s already difficult.

These plans are still being refined, and haven’t gone in for formal planning permission yet – we’ll aim to provide an update when they do. In the meantime, presumably recognising the disturbance residents have already seen as an extended building project has run in and around the estate for several years, funding has been found and work has just got underway to improve the general landscaping of the wider Gideon Road estate – see our separate post here for details of what is underway.

The third (and also un-developed) phase of the originally planned new-build development – which was for two buildings to be added to the corners of Tyneham Close, replacing an underused play pitch shown below, and an abandoned former laundry hanging area – is also being re-engineered, with the new plans looking to be an improvement on the previous somewhat dubious ones, if still far from perfect. We’ll report on the plans for that site in a future post.

If you found this of interest, you may want to see our wider articles on local environment, planning and housing issues. To receive updates sign up here. And if you have any news on these developments do let us know!

Posted in Environment, Housing, Street by street | 1 Comment

Clapham Common’s all-new free waterpark is open!

Just in time for the summer holidays, Clapham Common’s long awaited new waterplay facility has opened. It’s a replacement for the paddling pool that closed in 2020, and building work took a year longer than expected. But we got there in the end – and as a rare example of a free, just-turn-up facility open to kids of all ages, it’s quickly proved popular. It’s expected to run daily from 10am to 7pm, up to the end of September if the weather remains decent.

It’s a large site – 535 square metres! – and features 40 multi-function water jets, including water guns, tipping buckets, showers, soaking jets and fountains galore – as well as accessible and child-friendly toilets. Some of the old paddling pool has been reused – including the perimeter wall which has remained in use as seating for parents. As the following photos show, it was a pretty substantial construction project.

It uses an environmentally considerate and energy-efficient re-circulating water system to power the jets – and aims to be an efficient and creative use of the old paddling pool space, with the added advantage of being more accessible for those with physical, developmental or sensory disabilities. The project involved sizeable excavations to bury this huge underground water tank, which is presumably for treatment and recycling of the water.

There is plenty of space for cycle parking, as well as a service building next to the toilets – the one with the green door below – which we presume houses the pump machinery.

The old paddling pool had been a fixture on the Common since the 1950s, and we know many were sad to see it reach the end of its life. But much as it inspired fond memories for several generations of residents, it’s fair to say it was really struggling towards the end – with increasingly frequent and costly repairs needed as the water filtration machinery and, increasingly, the fabric of the pool itself aged.

It was finally closed for good in 2020, and spent a few years as the preserve of occasional skaters (as well as melancholy alcoholics, pictured below), before the building work got going earlier this summer.

The detailed design for the new facility, by Lambeth Council & the Clapham Common Management Advisory Committee, drew from a public consultation with residents. The consultation saw 614 people respond – with overwhelming support for the project (about 95% in favour of it). Over 800 comments were made – including asks for shaded area, for an accessible toilet, for a changing area, and for somewhere to sit – which led to various changes and improvements to the overall design. The strong public support may not seem surprising, but this was not the case when the original paddling pool was built in 1936! Lambeth’s very comprehensive archives include a newspaper cutting (from the Brixton Free Press) showing it being built – but noting that there had been objections from the residents of the adjacent block of flats, who said it would ‘lower the tone’ of their neighbourhood by attracting children from other areas.

This has been a big investment – ending up at £700,000 or so, with a fair bit of cost inflation along the way given that this was being contracted during the strange years where the Coronavirus was busily causing chaos in global supply chains. As the project’s business case noted, this has created a very accessible facility, which will provide a rest and active play space, with positive health impacts for inner-city children who may not otherwise have an opportunity to enjoy a water experience during the warm summer months. It should also be a boost for local businesses by increasing footfall in this part of Clapham Common – the likes of top ice cream maker Nardulli’s are bound to benefit!

It is the latest of an impressive series of investments in the Common’s exercise and play facilities – following the creation of three outdoor fitness areas and an outdoor gym, a large skate park and an upgrade to the basketball courts (which we have previously reported on), and a major redevelopment of the Windmill childrens’ playground. The commercial premises the on the Common (Megan’s, Pear Tree Cafe…) have seen substantial investment by their tenants to increase capacity and build trade, and whose rental payments ultimately support the ongoing work on the Common. And there have been a series of wildlife-focussed improvements including work to the ponds, creation of wildflower and butterfly meadows, and some work to the woods.

This represents a substantial effort by Lambeth, as well as the Clapham Common Management Advisory Committee & the Friends of Clapham Common – and it’s worth recognising the heroic efforts to get a project like this across the line. It’s been good to see this consistent and careful investment programme for the Common – which seems to be striking a reasonably fair balance between making the commercial income, and preserving the fundamental nature of the Common as an open space for everyone. It’s not always been like this! Back in the 1980s and 1990s it had gone through a period of general decline and very minimal maintenance, as Lambeth (who own and manage the whole of the Common, even though more than half of it is in Wandsworth) went through their own severe financial struggles – becoming rather famous for their factious politics and poor financial control, and having things like repairing bandstands somewhere near the very bottom of the agenda.

But with the finances back on track and enthusiastic leadership – what else might we see happen in the future? On a site as large and complex as Clapham Common there’s always more to do, and the Common still has plenty of difficult & expensive projects ahead. Maybe most obviously – an upgrade is long overdue for the well-used, but ageing and increasingly worn out, western playground near Battersea Rise. The Bowling green on Clapham Common Westside has been the subject of much controversy over now-withdrawn plans to create a commercial mini golf venture – and has a rather uncertain future. Things don’t look much better for the former Bowling Green Cafe / Common Ground next to it (pictured below in happier days), where the building has clearly reached the end of its serviceable life.

As we have previously reported, the tired and part-derelict changing rooms and toilets complex near Battersea woods, pictured below, had been considered for partial redevelopment to create a cafe – and was advertised to potential tenants with the warning that they would potentially need to rebuild the building! – but plans haven’t really advanced. The adjacent changing rooms also suffered a small fire last year that hasn’t helped.

The exercise facilities on the west side are also showing their age: the outdoor gym at the Battersea end was a good facility once, but sadly almost all the equipment has broken or seized up – seemingly due to fairly heavy use coupled with a lack of oil in the mechanisms.

Finally one of the gravel football pitches on the west side of the Common (whose maintenance hut is picyured below) is essentially abandoned. It’s made of a somewhat unusual mix of gravel and red ash called ‘redgra’ – an early example of an innovative all-weather material for pitches, that was developed in the early 1960s, but which has now been replaced with synthetic pitches almost everywhere else in the country.

One key issue affecting these sites is, of course, funding. The common does generate a reasonable income: the largest share, which can be of the order of £500,000 a year, comes from hosting concerts and events (where 21% of the income goes towards investment in parks and the Common). There’s also the rent from cafes and facilities (the Friends of Clapham Common reckoned this was about £125,000 a year in 2016, it will have gone up a fair bit since), and some relatively small fees for sports facilities. Funding has also come from one-off lottery grants (to restore the bandstand) and developer ‘Section 106’ funding (for some of the gym equipment). But we understand the Common doesn’t get to keep a lot of the income it generates – which can also go towards other parks around Lambeth that don’t host events, and wider uses in Lambeth.

Another factor may be politics. Eagle-eyes readers may have noticed that the dilapidated sites are now almost all on the half of the Common that’s in Wandsworth! The neighbouring boroughs have a complicated relationship when it comes to the Common: despite over half of the Common actually being within Wandsworth, all of it is owned and managed by Lambeth Council (who were granted ownership of it all by the old Greater London Council in 1971). Wandsworth have been less than enthusiastic about some of the huge events on the Common whose location and layout seemed designed to mainly keep Wandsworth residents awake at night, while generating funds that were mostly spent on wider uses in Lambeth. Conversely we can imagine Lambeth are not enormously enthusiastic about investing in facilities on the western side of the Common that mostly benefit Wandsworth residents. Will we see an increasingly stark divide between the well-looked-after Lambeth side and a deteriorating Wandsworth side of the Common?

Tie will tell. But for now – huge efforts by a lot of people have given us all an impressive new water play, and it’s set to stay open all summer – so spread the word, and make the most of it!

Clapham Common Water Play, The Pavement, Clapham Common SW4 0QZ. Open daily May to September. (update: open from 10am to 7pm daily, and provided the weather remains decent the plan is for it to stay open to the end of September). Free!

Posted in Clapham Common, Environment, Politics, Useful to know | 10 Comments

Factory developers, social reformers, fearless pilots, celebrated artists, tenacious campaigners and ‘dangerous subversives’: the pioneering women of Battersea’s early days.

London’s blue plaques link people of the past with the still-standing buildings they lived or worked in. It was started back in 1866 when a plaque was put up on the former house of Lord Byron – and it’s led to to 990 plaques in London, and similar schemes in cities around the country and the world. But the plaques managed by English Heritage are notoriously male dominated, with just 15% of them celebrating women. Things are even more skewed in Wandsworth, which has thirty blue plaques, twenty nine of which commemorate men. There’s no doubt that they had 29 very interesting lives – for example we’ve posted before about John Archer, commemorated by a plaque on his old house north of Clapham Junction. But it’s hard not to wonder – what about the women?

Last month, a plaque was finally unveiled for artist Marie Spartali Stillman. This is probably the start of more to come – as there’s far more to the women of Battersea than one plaque! This article, the first of a short series based on research by Jeanne Rathbone, looks at five of the many inspiring women who have lived in and around Lavender Hill.

Jeanie Nassau Senior lived in Lavender Hill in its very early days, when it was a scattering of large country houses along a road with distant views the Thames over fields, before the railways arrived and changed everything. Born in 1828, her brother was Thomas Hughes, who wrote Tom Brown’s Schooldays. She married at 18, and lived with her husband John – a not-very-successful Barrister – at Elm House, a country villa with a small wooded estate that sat on the current site of Battersea Arts Centre, and which is still remembered in the name of one of the rooms there.

Jeanie was the first female civil servant – ever – becoming known as the first woman in Whitehall. She wasn’t just notable for this though – she was also a powerful social reformer, helping Octavia Hill in her work to build decent social housing management in Marylebone, and volunteering in supplying aid during the Franco Prussian war which was the forerunner of the British Red Cross. Following her work with impoverished children in Surrey, Jeanie was appointed Inspector of Workhouses, by the radical President of the Local Government Board James Stansfeld, and in 1875 she published a controversial report criticising the education of “pauper girls” – where the workhouse ‘Barrack’ schools seemed to lead to prostitution. This would have created some family tensions, as her father in law was the very man who had originally instigated the system of workhouses! She also argued for the fostering of all poor orphans, rather than their incarceration. She was ferociously attacked for daring to criticise the poor state of affairs, and her fight to defend her findings against male hostility politicised her, to the extent that she became an icon for the late 19th century women’s movement.

The painting of her above is by George Watts, who painted a series of portraits of the most important men and women of the day, intended to form a “House of Fame”. George said of Jeanie: when you read the biography of “That Woman”, for it is one that will be written, you will find she had very few equals. It took 130 years for it to be written – but it has now been written by Sybil Oldfield. There’s ongoing work to install a blue plaque to Jeanie on Battersea Arts centre (formerly Battersea Town Hall – and going back further, the site of Elm House where Jeanie lived).

Deaconess Isabella Gilmore, born in 1842, had been happily married to a naval officer, and looked set for a pretty normal middle-class life – until her husband died at 40. She then decided to train as a nurse – which caused a lot of misgivings in her wider family. Florence Nightingale had done much to improve people’s idea of hospitals, and nursing was seen as a worthy occupation – but was not really seen as something for an aspiring middle or upper class person to do, as hospitals were still considered too harsh an environment for well-brought up girls! But Isabella was adamant and she entered Guy’s hospital training school.  Two years later took on as her own eight orphaned nieces and nephews when her brother died.

A further two years later, the Bishop of Rochester – clearly impressed by her industriousness – asked her to become a deaconess in his diocese, as part of a wider effort to revive the role of deaconess in the Church. Being a deaconess was quite a curious role – essentially being part of a ministry of women who would work among London’s poor and provide pastoral care, but reporting directly to the Bishop. Isabella didn’t have any theological training, and didn’t know much about the deaconesses either, but with some persuasion, agreed to go ahead. It seems she wasn’t hugely driven by the religious aspects, but saw a considerable opportunity to improve the lot of the poor of south London.

In 1887, she was ordained a deaconess – and with the support of the Bishop, built this in to an Order of Deaconesses within the Church – made up of women who were expected to be “a curiously effective combination of nurse, social worker and amateur policemen”. She set up a training house for deaconesses at 113 Clapham Common Northside. Getting hold of the building was an interesting challenge and shows her mix of pragmatism and ability to impress people with her dedication to the cause: she saw the house being emptied of its furniture as she walked across the common, following the death of its previous occupant, and found it had been bought by Thomas Wallis who lived nearby. She persuaded him to let the building to her, to house the new training centre. When Thomas died, she was able to persuade subsequent owner Herbert Shepherd-Cross – who conveniently happened to be an old friend – to sell her the freehold; Herbert even contributed £100 to her £4000 purchase price.

Isabella served actively in the poorest parishes in South London until her retirement in 1906, addressing the needs of the poor through working with girls and women. It wasn’t an easy life for her, or the deaconesses she trained at the house on Clapham Common: many left as the job proved challenging, not so much ‘dishing out alms to the poor’, but instead a lot of ‘real’ work. Gilmore insisted that the women were trained in basic theological principles, to be ready for parochial duties, as well as basic nursing skills (with some given the opportunity to train for six months at Guy’s hospital where Isabella had trained as a nurse herself). They provided a soup kitchen, donated clothing, looked after the sick, and taught religion and basic sanitation.  Her older brother William Morris – famous in his own right as a social activist and major figure in the Arts & Crafts movement – observed that whilst he preached socialism, his sister actually practised it. The women she trained were paid, she was not.

Deaconesses paved the way for the ordination of women. There is a sculpted plaque to her memory in Southwark Cathedral. The house by Clapham Common, which is still standing at the corner of Elspeth Road (but now split in to flats) was later named Gilmore House in her honour.

Isabella personally paid for the chapel at the site – which features this rather fine stained glass window. The chapel was notable for its ‘Arts and Crafts’ style architecture (something we don’t see much of, which also features in our post on Battersea reference library), and the high quality of its fittings, mostly designed by Webb or Morris & Co (the firm Isabella’s brother William Morris ran). Though the chapel is still standing, it was stripped of most of its furniture in the 1970s for use as a recreation hall for students, and in the early 2000s was converted to a rather luxurious studio apartment – the photo below shows it just before that conversion took place.

Marie Spartali lived directly opposite Gilmore House, at about the same time, in a still-standing house called The Shrubbery (a very grand house on Lavender Gardens that just doesn’t look like it fits in Battersea!). Born in 1844, she was British Pre-Raphaelite painter, arguably the greatest female artist of that movement. During a sixty-year career, she produced 170 works, contributing regularly to exhibitions in the UK and the US. She studied drawing and painting under Ford Madox Brown. She painted images of active, empowered women that challenged the male gaze.

Marie sat for numerous paintings by Ford Madox Brown, Burne-Jones, Whistler, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and for photographs for Julia Cameron, and was a close friend of William Morris (whose sister Isabella worked next door). She married an American widow William Stillman, with three children and had three more. He was foreign correspondent for The Times resulting in them dividing time between London, Florence, Rome and US. She was described as “austere, virtuous and fearless, she was not lacking in a caustic wit and a sharp tongue”.

Marie worked in a period in which the opportunities for women artists were limited, and when social convention viewed them only as amateurs. She was, however, determined to forge her own career and created a significant body of work – over 150 painting in five decades – including The Enchanted Garden of Messer Ansald below. Her work is now regularly included in exhibitions about the Pre-Raphaelite movement.

And Marie is the first woman to have an English Heritage Battersea blue plaque in her honour! As art historian and Blue Plaques Panel member Andrew Graham-Dixon said, there are only a handful of female artists commemorated by the blue plaques scheme, and Marie Spartali Stillman is actually the first female Pre-Raphaelite artist to receive one.

Charlotte Despard was born the same year as Marie in 1844, into a wealthy Anglo Irish family. She married Max Despard and wrote ten novels.

Unfortunately Max died at sea in 1890, after which Charlotte wore black for most of the rest of her life. Charlotte was shocked and radicalised by the levels of poverty in London – and following suggestions by her friends that she could take up charitable activities, she devoted her time and money to helping the poor of Battersea. Nine Elms in particular had become criss-crossed by railways and industry by then, with more than its fair share of poverty and people very much on the breadline; Charlotte lived in Nine Elms during the week (at No. 2 Currie Street – a road which has completely disappeared and is roughly where the US embassy’s security screening section now stands) and created what became known as Despard Clubs. These were a forerunner of future community centres – and included a health clinic, youth and working men’s clubs, and a soup kitchen for the local unemployed.

She was also a powerful campaigner. She became a member of the Independent Labour Party, and later joined the Women’s Social and Political Union, a women-only political movement and leading militant organisation campaigning for women’s suffrage, and maybe better known as the suffragettes. Its members became known for civil disobedience and direct action. and Charlotte served more than one prison sentence! Sylvia Pankhurst, who was imprisoned with Charlotte, later remarked at her death that ‘She was one of our most courageous and devoted social workers. When I was in prison with her in 1907, I was impressed by her truly magnificent courage.’

Divisions started to emerge in the sufragette movement, and Charlotte left the movement (along with 70 others) to set up the Women’s Freedom League, a non-violent organisation – where she edited its magazine The Vote. She was an active member of the Battersea Labour Party and stood as the Labour candidate for Battersea North in the 1918 general election – but her anti-war views proved unpopular at the time.

by Unknown photographer, halftone postcard print, 19 August 1909

After the first World War she left to live in Dublin, to campaign for Irish Independence – and clearly made an impact there too as she was classed as a dangerous subversive under the 1927 Public Safety Act for her opposition to the Anglo-Irish Treaty. She remained actively political well into her 80s and 90s: her house in Dublin was occasionally raided by the authorities, but a few years after she joined the Communist Party in 1930 it was burned down by an anti-communist mob! She died in Belfast in 1939, aged 95; recognising her extraordinarily sustained and varied campaigning her biography was titled “An Unhusbanded Life: Charlotte Despard, Suffragette, Socialist and Sinn Feiner“.

Charlotte donated a building to the Battersea Labour Party, and close to a century later 177 Lavender Hill is still their headquarters, with a plaque in her honour visible in our photo. Charlotte Despard Avenue in the Doddington & Rollo Estate is named after her, as is a both a street and a pub in Archway.

Hilda Hewlett, born in Vauxhall in 1864, was a pioneering aviator, and the first woman to qualify as a pilot in the UK.  She attended the National Art Training School in South Kensington, specialising in skills which served her well in her later aviation engineering career: woodwork, metalwork, and needlework. She was also an early bicycle and car enthusiast – she learned to drive, took part in several car rallies, and was even fined for speeding in May and June 1905!

She attended her first aviation meeting at Blackpool in 1909, and then travelled to France the following year to study aeronautics, where she met aviation engineer Gustave Blondeau – and struck up a long running business partnership. She was clearly keen – and returned to England with a Farman III biplane! Within months, she and Blondeau opened the first flying school in the UK in Weybridge. Thirteen pupils graduated from the school in the year and a half it operated – with an impressive and unusual record of no accidents. the next year, Hilda became the first woman in the UK to earn a pilot’s licence. She taught her son Francis to fly too – he qualified as a pilot the same year; he went on to have a distinguished military aviation career, making him the first military pilot taught to fly by his mother.

Hilda’s role was to grow still more important as the first World War approached. and the need for aircraft became urgent. In 1912 in she, with Gustave, formed Hewlett and Blondeau, the first company to build Caudron aircraft in Britain – which they did under license from the Caudron firm, who were one of the earliest aircraft manufacturers in France. She forged straight in to setting up a factory – which she based in a disused ice skating rink called The Omnia in Battersea, which had seen all manner of unlikely uses in between including a car factory and a snooker hall. They eventually produced ten different types of aircraft.

There wasn’t really space for a fully fledged military aircraft production line in inner-city Battersea, so in 1914 she and Gustave developed a new factory in Bedfordshire specifically to build Farman aircraft. They named the new factory The Omnia Works to keep the Battersea link. They bought the land in May, and when the First World War started three months later the factory was able to meet government orders for aircraft for the wartime expansion of the Royal Flying Corps.

The Hewlett & Blondeau factory employed around up to 700 people at its peak (over 300 of them women), and produced more than 800 aeroplanes; after the war it diversified to make farm machinery but was eventually sold. Recognising the impact of the company she co-founded on the war effort, a road in Luton, Hewlett Road, was named after her. She emigrated to for New Zealand in the thirties, aged 66 – attracted by the outdoor life but still with a keen interest in flying.

English Heritage’s blue plaques may be male-dominated, but Jeanne Rathbone and the Battersea Society are filling the gap by doing a sterling job of filling the gap – with an ever-growing set of plaques to commemorate notable Battersea residents, in particular the women who have been under-represented in local and national commemoration schemes. The street view above shows one of these plaques at 4 Vardens Road, a quiet side street a few blocks west of Clapham Junction – which believe it or not was the site of the old ice skating rink that became Hilda’s first aeroplane factory!

This is the first of what will be a short series of posts on the women of Battersea. We’re deeply indebted to Jeanne Rathbone who developed most of the content of this article – and who has been a driving force behind telling the story of the many inspiring women who have made their lives and careers in Battersea. Jeanne is also a woman of many talents, among them local historian, comedian, one time Council Women’s Officer, former alcohol counsellor, humanist celebrant, and author of Inspiring Women of Battersea (available to buy for under £10 here – it’s well worth a read!). She has published far more detailed accounts than we cover here, and run several Notable Women of Lavender Hill walks. And with impeccable timing, Jeanne is leading a free walk on Sunday the 6th August, starting at Battersea Arts Centre then walking down Lavender Hill to The Falcon looking at sites and survivors of our most iconic buildings and plaques to women – registration details here.

Sticking with the theme of blue plaques, Hilda’s story isn’t the first piece of Battersea’s aviation history we have written about: a previous lavender-hill.uk article tells the story of how a smelly alley behind some bins near Battersea Park started a venture that became a major part of the UK’s aviation industry. Our series of local history posts also include an article about the interesting story of John Archer, the first black Mayor, who saw an English Heritage plaque installed in 2013. We’ve also reported on the unveiling of a plaque to Tom Taylor and Laura Barker on Lavender Sweep.

Posted in Local history | 9 Comments

A difficult problem: Are traffic lights the answer for Culvert Road’s troublesome railway tunnel?

Culvert Road leaves a lot to be desired – a long, narrow tunnel, followed by an isolated and indirect footbridge. We’ve previously written about the unexpectedly interesting history of the place. But it’s a proper traffic headache! It was designed for occasional use by 1870s-sized vehicles rather than regular route by modern vans and trucks, and the opening of a major set of ‘dark kitchens’ in the Parkfield Industrial Estate has seen a huge increase in motorcycles and delivery bikes.

Unfortunately the tunnel is also a major access route to schools on both sides of the railway, with Harris Academy Battersea to the north, and Shaftesbury Park primary & John Burns primary to the south. It’s also a popular route from the Shaftesbury Estate to Battersea Park. Wandsworth counted the pedestrians for a day, and found over 1,000 people walked through the tunnel – with big peaks either side of the school day:

This mixing of fast traffic with sometimes young children has led to substantial safety concerns, and while only six crashes have bene recorded (three either side of the tunnel, all involving a motorcycle and a vehicle, and leading to only minor injuries), there have been a lot of near misses. But anecdotally, and as anyone who uses the tunnel regularly will report, this spot has become a proper headache – whether motorcycles zooming through, vans not waiting and squeezing pedestrians on the woefully narrow pavement, or drivers racing round the corner at the southern end. In our own experience many motorcyclists at this spot are very careful and clearly well aware of the dangers here – but frankly quite a few are not! Residents on both sides of the railway have therefore been calling for something to be done before there is a more serious accident, and Wandsworth – to their credit – have now had a proper look at actually doing something.

Trouble is, Culvert Road is a fiendishly difficult problem to actually fix. The tunnel’s three metres wide at best, so there’s no scope for a proper pavement – what’s currently in place (which the Council call a ‘substandard footway’, but that’s probably overselling it) is a mucky ledge, barely wide enough to walk on and dodge vans’ wing mirrors, and to make matters worse a section half way through has subsided in to a muddy mess. And don’t even think about accessibility to anyone with poor sight or limited mobility – this area has long lacked even basic safety features. The problem mostly comes down to a shoddy and badly-thought-through original design when the railway was built: despite there previously being many actual houses in the space between the railways (pictured above), these were built as fairly cheap houses and no one really bothered to provide decent access other than one rather minimal service tunnel.

There are other, much larger, railway arches to the east – but as the arch plan above shows, these arches only go about a quarter of the way under the railway, with the rest just being a huge earth embankment, so there’s no hope of converting one of them to a better or secondary access tunnel. And somewhat unusually there are no other arches at all that could give access to the large Parkfield industrial estate! Not a single one, it is surrounded on all sides by embankments and live railway lines at ground level – which probably explains why they are serving a whole series of large industrial units and dark kitchens through one woefully narrow tunnel. As an aside – the next two photos show the arch next to the tunnel in use in the film A Fish Called Wanda – for more on the extensive film use of this spot see our previous article.

A proper, straight footbridge running all the way across all the railway lines in one go is another option, and would be a lot safer – but it would need to be two storeys above ground so cost a fortune, it would probably overlook assorted back gardens, and there’s not really space at the south end for ramps or lifts. The tunnel itself can’t be widened without spending stratospheric sums and interrupting access to two mainline London railway stations. The businesses in the Parkfield Industrial Estate have for the most part encouraged their riders to drive carefully, and to give credit where it’s due the established mechanics’ workshops, fireplace stockists and coffee roasters there have always had careful and courteous drivers – but the nature of the food delivery industry means that the dark kitchens that have sene so much recent growth typically have new (and rushed, and inexperienced) drivers turning up every week – so these approaches no longer work. Which leaves us without many options! Someone in Wandsworth has therefore had a good look at what they can do with this tunnel (which they don’t even own – it’s a Network Rail property)

The Council’s Transport committee considered this at a meeting in early July (link here – but beware, it’s an 800+ page PDF!) – and they have gone for the least-worst of what was probably a pretty short list of options – with a plan to install traffic lights at either end of the bridge. This should mean it can operate in three phases: traffic northbound, traffic southbound, and a pedestrians only phase that stops vehicles entering the tunnel in either direction when a button is pressed. There will be sensors to detect vehicles that are inside the tunnel, and probably cameras to detect and issue fines to any vehicles that jump the lights. The proposed layouts are shown below.

The council’s transport committee agreed the proposal last week, which will go for final agreement by the Council executive next week. Network Rail (who own the tunnel) and Transport for London (who own all the traffic lights in London) also need to agree – but this seems reasonably likely as Network Rail are not picking up the £150,000 bill, and TfL will want to avoid a major injury after the ongoing debacle of their somewhat lackadaisical approach to improving the Battersea Bridge pedestrian crossing.

It’s quite an unusual approach and we can’t quite think of anywhere else that this has been tried in a tunnel – but it seems to be the best way of trying to do something about the tunnel; and credit is due to the community members on the safer neighbourhood panel and to tenacious ward councillors for keeping pushing the issue, and for someone in the depths of Wandsworth’s transport department for thinking fairly creatively about what can be done here.

Will it work? Who knows… Delivery mopeds aren’t known for their adherence to the rules of the road. But we suspect enforcement – meaning fines, and lots of them – coupled with prominent signs advertising that this is being CCTV-enforced – will help; and may well offset much of the cost of the scheme. What’s not in doubt is that the current situation is a nasty accident waiting to happen and doing nothing is not really an option. Culvert Road is a knotty and difficult problem with no easy fixes – but this will hopefully make it a bit safer for everyone using it.

If you found this interesting you may want to see a short article about the redevelopment of the Culvert Court industrial estate right next to the tunnel, an article about a small independent coffee roastery within that estate, and above all our detailed article about the lost community that used to be based between the tracks, and the future of this often-overlooked bit of Battersea. There’s also a collection of the other posts we’ve written about transport in the Lavender Hill & Queenstown Road area. It’s now also possible to receive updates on new posts by email.

Posted in Business, Planning, Retail, Transport | 2 Comments

In pictures: Partridges stationers & art suppliers closes after 60 years

Partridges’ art and stationery supplies shop is one of Lavender Hill’s longest standing shops – if not the longest standing. They have been here for sixty years – with the current owner trading for 25 years. Generations of every kind of art paint, pens of all description, craft tools, papers and card of every shade, files and folders – but also polystyrene shapes, wooden figures and shapes, beads and stickers, wool and sewing supplies, glues, plasticines and clays, you name it – this is the one place that is pretty much guaranteed to stock it, no matter how obscure. But that’s all about to come to an end, as they close for good in the middle of July.

It’s been an impressively long run – supplying many a creative school project as well as many a higher end artist. But the last few years have been hard – with rent for the double-sized premises coming in at about £100,000 a year (to landlords Wandsworth Council – who own the freehold of the flats above), and business rates of £26,000 a year, not to mention the cost of staff, insurance, and heating and electricity – where electricity prices for businesses (who aren’t protected by many of the price caps that apply to households) have exploded.

Competition from online sellers who face none of these overheads, and tend not to pay tax either, has been fierce, and we understand that Covid only made things harder as even more of the specialist trade shifted online. Partridges had held its own against Asda almost opposite for decades: while Asda sells some of the stationery basics cheaply, their range was mostly fairly rudimentary and never had the same level of variety.

But rising costs and the pressure of online sales means they have decided to call it a day, with the store’s manager planning to head to a well earned retirement. It’s not the end of the business – their sister store in Tooting will continue to trade, at K&K Stationers & Printers at 94 Mitcham Rd, Tooting SW17 9NG (on the main road south of the station) – pictured below.

But for now, we have a few more days of having a properly stocked local stationery shop before we’re left with the small selection in Rymans, the core range in Asda, or the option of online delivery or heading out to options much further afield like Hobbycraft in Summerstown.

In a way it’s the end of an era, and after all, who doesn’t love a good stationery shop? Of course you can order everything, but there’s still something about having it all in front of you – and with so much stock it always feels full of possibilities.

So as a small tribute to the staff of Partridges, for decades of service to local art projects and everyone who’s wanted specialist stationery, we’ve captured some photos of Partridges in its final days. Sadly we’re unlikely to see a shop like this in Clapham Junction ever again.

This is one of a handful of articles we’ve written about the longest standing retailers of Lavender Hill – you may find our posts on the Hill Launderette, on Donna Margerita restaurant, and on the Corner Stone Bookshop, of interest. At the other end of the longevity scale, we recently posted about the sad case of the China Garden takeaway which lasted just a couple of weeks…

Posted in Business, Local history, Retail | 3 Comments

In pictures: Arding & Hobbs at Clapham Junction starts to emerge from the scaffolding

We’ve posted many times about the redevelopment of Clapham Junction’s flagship building, the Arding & Hobbs department store – from the first plans, to updates on the works, and the latest finds in the building as the building work progressed. Under the ownership of real estate firm W.RE, work has advanced pretty well – and the last few weeks have seen quite a lot of the scaffolding come down, revealing the restored facade of the building.

Maybe the most noticed change has been the addition of two new storeys at the top – which have the unusual feature of being a giant golden crown! This is quite striking and has seen lots of attention – although the gold won’t be sticking around; it’s essentially the colour of new copper but has already started to go darker and will end up as a less prominent brown shade within a year or so.

This will accommodate a generously sized office space, including a roof terrace facing Lavender Hill, which is likely to be very popular with its occupiers.

We caught an unusual view of a large container of plants being craned up to the top of the building, where they will form part of the future roof garden! –

The (temporarily) golden crown is not especially visible from most angles – but does make an appearance when looking along the Falcon Road –

It does look pretty consistent with the original plans for the extension –

The entrance to the offices on the upper floors has also started to take shape on St Johns Road, with the girders to support a small canopy recently being installed, echoing (in a small way) the much larger 1970s one that was removed earlier in the works.

This will lead to a new office reception, in what was the ‘handbags & escalators’ bit of Debenhams. The plan had been to retain the escalators to preserve some of the classic ‘Department store’ look, albeit w have yet to see whether this remained the plan given the increasing electricity cost of running escalators all day; the store was originally designed with a grand staircase here and the escalators only came later.

The main facade is almost scaffolding-free, revealing the restored windows along the first floor. The corner entrance will be to a new pub / restaurant, the Albion & East, described as “Open all-day & late-night with early-morning coffee, brunch & hot-desking in the day to cocktails, wood-fired pizza & DJs at night and everything in-between“.

Round on Ilminster Gardens, the part of the building that had been looking particularly neglected has had a heavy duty cleanup – with the brickwork cleaned, most of the windows replaced with new ones with darker frames and double glazing. Many of these windows had been boarded over from the inside, but they have now been reopened to let light into the new office spaces on the upper levels.

One set of windows that hasn’t been replaced is the leaded glass on the upper ground floor, which us having some minor restoration works.

This is the same window before works started (thanks, as ever, to Google Street View) – showing how two of the stained glass panels that were completely missing have been recreated, and also how a load of pipes and clutter has been stripped from the wall to the right, and how a doorway that had been crudely bashed in to the right side of the window is being removed and replaced with leaded glazing! Few will notice this sort of detail round at the back of the building, but this is what sets a quality project apart from a ‘good enough’ one and we’re pleased to see it being done properly.

The other windows were previously in even worse condition, having had huge drainpipes bashed right through them, and big bits replaced with boards. We have reason to believe that the brown bit below the windows in the street view capture above used to also have elegant stained glass in it – indeed, some of the stained glass was still visible before the works started, shown below –

It’s hidden away behind the construction hoarding for now, but fingers crossed that this heritage glazing will also be restored during the works.

Meanwhile the space with the big windows up on the first floor of the building – which was the menswear department in the final year of Debenhams – had originally been envisaged as office space. We felt (and reported) at the time that the part closest to the Lavender Hill entrance would be better suited to a commercial use, with access from the pink arrow labelled ‘retail entrance 2’ in the diagram below – although W.RE at the time said they had not seen a lot of interest to take on first floor commercial units.

Well things changed, and the good news is that Third Space, one of the major tenants W.RE have already signed up, has taken space over three floors: most of the basement, the sort of mezzanine area that used to be the Debenhams ‘show boutique’ and then the ‘Joe and the Juice’ concession, but also a decent slice of the elegant first floor space – so this first floor will remain part of the Lavender Hill commercial space after all. We reported the Third Space signing back in March (with thanks to our ever-observant readers for the tip off!); they will be opening a large new gym and spa whose entrance will be at the corner pictured below, next to Nando’s.

It’s a sizeable investment for Third Space, who already run several similar venues in the City, and who are close to opening one in Wimbledon. It’s not Third Space’s only big investment in Battersea as they are also currently fitting out a large club by Battersea Power Station, due to open later this year. That one is based in the Gehry-designed buildings close to the tube, next to the recently-opened branch of Wagamama –

The Battersea Power Station venue is also large – our photo taken a couple of months ago as they were getting started on the internal fitout shows the scale of the site!

The new Third Space club at Arding & Hobbs will be designed by architects RHE, with an industrial design style. It will feature five studios, to host classes such as Reformer Pilates, Hot Yoga, a high-intensity studio with immersive light and sound, and a cycle studio. It will also have a track and rig area complete with assault bikes and ski ergs, and strength and cardio equipment. A separate part fo the club will have a wet spa with a sunken massage jet hydro-pool, cold plunge pool, steam room and a sauna whose walls are made of Himalayan sea salt; we’re not wholly sure how this is all being fitted in but the artists’ impression below gives a feel for the design approach this part of the club will be taking.

As the Battersea Society have noted, from the perspective of keeping a dynamic town centre at Clapham Junction that attracts the trade to support a wide mix of businesses, it’s a bit of a shame to see the plans for Arding & Hobbs’ shop space shift towards a members-only club, with the overall amount fo the building that passers by can visit on a ‘just drop in’ basis now rather smaller than what had been originally envisaged (where half the overall ground floor and a quarter of the basement would be for retail, and the rest for uses like office space and members’ clubs – this is now down to under a third of the ground floor and none of the basement). However this needs to be set against what is clearly a committed and high-quality restoration project for the building as a whole; and Third Space are a quality tenant who will both find a receptive local customer base, and establish a generally high threshold of quality for the development as a whole.

We have yet to see who is occupying the remaining office space on the upper levels, whose planed design is pictured above – and who is taking over the one remaining ground-floor shop unit (which had been linked to Amazon for one of their cashier-less stores, until they halted their UK expansion plans and pulled out – frankly maybe not a great loss). They may not be the most exciting tenant but we still suspect Boots may yet be interested, give they are planning a major rationalisation of their stores – and that at Clapham Junction they have one huge but not-ideally-located store whose lease expires in 2024, and one store a few doors down from Arding & Hobbs which is an odd layout and far too small to really work. As ever, we’ll keep you posted.

If you found this interesting, you may want to see our many previous articles on the Arding & Hobbs redevelopment, as well as our articles on retail and business topics in the Lavender Hill area.

Posted in Arding & Hobbs, Business, Planning, Retail | 3 Comments

All change, as the old Tearoom des Artistes on Wandsworth Road is reduced to rubble.

We’ve written before in some detail about the abandoned cluster of buildings at the junction of Wandsworth Road and North Street in Clapham. Once home to the Artesian Well & Lost Society, and before that to the Cafe des Artistes, the last few years have seen them become particularly run down: the owner gave up running them as bars after becoming embroiled in a series of license disputes, and they then changed hands a few times while being intermittently occupied by squatters and Property Guardians.

Both were ultimately bought local developer Marston Properties in 2016, a local firm responsible for quite a few developments in the Lavender Hill area. Marston knew this area well: they just happened to already own the Plough Brewery across the road (which they have converted to an office complex). The year before, in 2015, Marston had also bought the former Plough Inn next door to it – which had been trading as Mist on Rocks, under the same licensee as the Artesian Well and Lost Society. With these purchases, Marston found itself in the interesting and unusual position of owning four neighbouring buildings – three of them former licenses premises – so had quite an opportunity to reshape this bit of town. They got going on a comprehensive refit of the Mist on Rocks building at the very end of 2020, and have recently finished work – creating two flats on the upper levels, facilities for the business centre next door on the lower levels, and the ground floor currently up to let as a cafe that will be open to the public as well as to those working on the brewery office complex next door. It’s looking pretty decent – a nice touch is that the original windows and the pub tiling have been carefully restored.

The larger of the two properties currently in construction work, formerly Artesian Well, has been a pub of one form or another for most of its existence, and Marston plan to refurbish it to house a new gastropub at the ground floor and flats on the upper floors. It will be the only licensed premises remaining, where there were three. The building was stripped out quite early on, with the shell pictured below – but it’s only in the last few months that works have properly got going.

It’s now comprehensively covered in scaffolding – with works well underway. The construction work’s pretty substantial – a complete replacement of everything in the building other than the shell and the basic floor structure.

That said, there are no plans to change the exterior: the artists’ impression of what it will look like is shown below (which, to be frank, is about what it looks like now – but tidied up a bit)

The story’s a bit more complicated for the smaller white building next door. The planning extract below shows the planned layout of the new ground floor – which sees the old Artesian Well and Lost Society buildings joined together as a single property.

There’ll also be a small new building between the two, the one with the black front shown in the aerial view below, which will include some flats as well as the access stairwell to the upper level of both buildings.

The smaller Lost Society building isn’t remaining as a bar, but will instead be converting to an entirely residential use, creating 9 flats in all spread between the two buildings, with the entrance to all the flats being in what used to be the bar’s garden area. A maybe more surprising part of the proposals, in a conservation area, was that the building was to be completely demolished, and replaced with a similar looking but brand new structure. The planning application reported that the years of rather limited maintenance hadn’t been kind to the building (whose front wall was indeed noticeably cracked), and it was in a rather poor state that made its conversion to anything like modern building standards not cost effective.

The building works kept the old building in place for longer than we expected, as substantial amounts of material were extracted from the old building and extensive digging took place. We did wonder at one stage if the building – or parts of it – had maybe had a partial eleventh-hour reprieve. But then the whole lot rapidly disappeared…

…leaving nothing but a large gap in the terrace. It’s a shame to lose this particularly old building with a long history, maybe going all the way back to the 16th century when it was a barn on the Clapham Manor estate and would have been on an isolated hilltop. After stints as a as a motorcycle showroom and garage, a tyre depot and an antique emporium “called Ageless” – whiel also being said to be haunted by the ghost of Rose Devereaux, a flower seller who died in tragic circumstances at the turn of the century – it became the Tearoom des Artistes in 1982, and was for many years quite a unique venue. For those of us who never saw it in its prime, Bill Hicks’ recollections as well as the article comemnts are well worth a read –

The Tearooms des Artistes… was a rare survivor of a genuine late-60s style alternative meeting place space. Part bar, part cheap veggie restaurant, part art-gallery, nightclub, performance space – a veritable mini-arts lab for the shrinking bohemian populations of SWs 8 and 4 and 11. Somewhere you could sit and read and talk most of the day, or just find a dark corner to hide in. Occupying what felt like farmyard buildings (and it did apparently incorporate much of a 16th century barn and -according to some accounts – slaughterhouse), with low-ceilinged rooms and passageways going off in directions, plus a garden area if you were adventurous, creaking floorboards and furniture, it seemed, sourced from skips across all 35 boroughs.

As he commented when we last wrote about this cluster of buildings –

“I used to spend good time at the Café des Artistes, in the 1980s it was a fabulously anarchic place, and it remained so up til the 90s. Then it became Lost Society. But the building was – and it still is – an amazing relic of the pre-suburban era, when Clapham was a village deep in countryside. You sensed its age, especially upstairs. I loved this place and wish to god some sort of preservation order had been made, forbidding its falling into the hands of property developers, however “sensitive” they might seem.”

The new building (pictured below) will look distinctly similar to the old one (above) but – being new – allows rather more practical layouts for some of the flats. But there’s no doubt that we’re probably losing the oldest and most historically interesting building of the set here.

That said – generally speaking this looks like a thoughtful and careful treatment of this site – and Marston’s decent work on the Plough Inn opposite generally bodes well for the development. They have previously restored and let a pub (in Fulham) and we suspect they won’t have too much trouble letting this new premises, even though it’s pretty unlikely the one remaining commercial unit at this crossroads will ever regain the level of crowds and action it saw at its peak as Artesian Well, let alone as the Tearoom des Artistes. Though after so many years of years of dereliction and decay, it’s good to see this cluster of buildings finally start to come back to life.

If this was of interest, our previous article about this bit of town goes in to the history of the Plough Brewery opposite, and also explores the controversial plans to redevelop parts of North Street Mews to the south of this site, as well as the large and rather messy house that was previously the Silverthorne Cabs office to the east.

Posted in Business, Food & drink, Housing, Local history, Planning | 2 Comments

It all goes wrong at Donna Margherita on Lavender Hill

We’ve written a few times about Donna Margherita, at 183 Lavender Hill – one of our longest serving Neapolitan restaurants with two decades on Lavender Hill. Donna Margherita’s owner Gabriele Vitale moved to London from Italy about 30 years ago. He lived in Kilburn for 12 years , at first working as a waiter and sales rep selling coffee machines. But he felt something just wasn’t right – he was missing food from home – especially the pizza that his hometown of Naples is famed for. He found there was no shortage of trattorias and pizzerias, but they lacked a certain Italian authenticity! He concluded that if he couldn’t be a satisfied customer elsewhere, maybe he should start one himself. This was how he came to set up his own restaurant, Donna Margherita, in Lavender Hill in 2023, supported by his pizza chef Ayrton, and of course a proper wood burning oven.

Named after Queen Margherita – who gave her name to the Pizza Margherita, after she sampled three pizzas in Naples and declared it her favourite – Gabriele focussed on doing traditional pizza well, as well as a wide range of pasta dishes (Gabrielle’s favourite was the Spaghetti Vongole , a Venetian white wine clam pasta that started life as peasant food and became an Italian classic). The business was an immediate success, becoming a firm favourite with locals, with good reviews in Time Out helping to spread the word further afield about this Battersea business.

Gabriele and his team of eight weren’t averse to a bit of experimentation though – for example switching from pizza dough made of the most widely used ’00’ flour, which is a very finely sifted one, to a coarser ‘type 1’ flour that is sifted less, so as to retain more of the original bran and wheat germ. The restaurant also started to develop a wider gluten-free menu.

Everything was going well. They made it through the nightmare of the Coronavirus – opening a delicatessen along the way to serve the takeaway trade, with a wide range of Italian produce. But as the Coronavirus faded and they reverted to being a restaurant disaster struck – with a major fire in the kitchen in April 2021 causing quite substantial damage and leading to immediate closure. Undaunted, and following the usual insurance uncertainty, the owners set about to create something brighter and fresher than what had gone before, with a new look – including bringing light in to the back of the restaurant area, a curved new feature ceiling in sky blue, and a crisper, simpler overall design – while of course keeping the all-important pizza oven at the back of the space.

Things were actually coming on pretty well, to the extent that by September 2021, five months after the fore, we could start seeing what Donna Margherita 2.0 was going to look like; and the builders we spoke to were proud of the way things had progressed. Donna Margherita’s Instagram was clearly showing the enthusiasm too:  “Ciao Amici! We’re still full-on working hard on our Donna Margherita 2.0, works are proceeding great but unfortunately, it might take a few more months before we can safely open our doors.We appreciate every single one of you reaching out and we hope to see you as soon as we open! This is the longest break we took in over 20 years and it will probably be the longest one we’ll take ever, we love our job and making you smile with our food!“.

But progress was slow, with lengthy pauses. The first time everything stopped we hoped it was just a case of struggling to find people to do the finishing touches in a very tight market in the building trades. But weeks turned in to months, and we were unable to detect any signs of activity, or contact anyone involved. Back in May this year, over a year after the fire, our post “Donna Margherita: Is this goodbye?” got a fair bit of attention, and if nothing else it showed that there is strong loyalty to a proper neighbourhood restaurant that has been with us for so long. There were clearly still people hoping that the restaurant could return – but the site remained as in the photo above for many more months. Extended closure is a dangerous place to be for any business, with business rates to pay but no income, no matter how understanding the insurers are, and amid the silence many started to wonder if it was all over for Donna Margherita.

Some time later we reported that work had resumed, and the restaurant was finally finished. Our photo above shows new fridges and delicatessen at the right hand side of the premises, electrics fully finished, the floor polished, seating in place and pictures up on the wall. It had been quite a journey for what the owners initially hoped would be an eight week renovation – but finally Donna Margherita coudl get back to what it could do best, serving good food in a good atmosphere. But in a story that had already had a few twists and turns, yet more bad news: just when the restaurant was ready to reopen, notices from ‘Dukes Bailiffs’ have appeared on the door confirming that the premises has been repossessed by the landlord, presumably on the grounds of unpaid rent.

We’re not sure what precisely went wrong, although we’d hazard a guess that it took a lot longer to rebuilt and refurbish the premises after the April 2021 fire than anyone expected, and the insurance money wasn’t sufficient to cover all the rent and costs being stacked up during the works. These things happen – we understand that the renovation threw up all sorts of headaches, as is often the case in older buildings – and no-one could really have foreseen how long it would have taken to get things up and running again. Many of the running costs keep on costing even when a business isn’t trading, and there are maybe echoes of the similar recent eviction at China Garden where overrunning building works seem to have led to the collapse of the business. But it’s a rather cruel end to Gabriele’s restaurant after two decades of trading, especially after he’d battled through the Coronavirus, and a near-complete rebuild of the premises, to the point of being right on the brink of reopening. Some lucky new tenant may be able to trade in a freshly refitted restaurant with a brand-new pizza oven. But for Gabriele, we can only really express our sympathy, and hope he’s able to find a way forward.

Posted in Business, Food & drink | 2 Comments

The surprising history of a smelly alley behind some bins near Battersea Park

It’s not the most obvious spot for a landmark in the history of flight! Hidden behind a load of bins next to a Battersea petrol station, along an alleyway whose smell reveals its other role as a surreptitious urinal, is a blue plaque revealing that the Short Brothers, the pioneers of flight, ‘worked here’. It’s nowhere near an airport, indeed it’s little more than a run of railway arches. So what on earth were they doing here?

It all started in 1897, when 21-year-old Eustace Short – the one on the right in the rather blurry photo – bought a second hand hot air balloon (which was filled with coal gas). Hot air balloons were a new and fashionable market at the time, and when Eustace and his younger brother Oswald (on the left in the photo, and then in his late teens) visited the 1900 world fair in Paris, they saw balloons made by Édouard Surcouf that who had perfected the art of making perfect spheres. Clearly inspired, they set up a balloon-making business, perfected their own designs, and started offering balloons for sale in 1902. The next year they landed their first contract, to make three military observation balloons for the Government of India. The superintendent of the government’s ‘School of Ballooning‘ (a training and test centre for Army experiments with balloons and airships) was very impressed with the quality of the balloons they had made – so much so that he introduced the brothers to Charles Rolls – another familiar name, because he was the co-founder of Rolls Royce. Charles asked the brothers to make a large racing balloon that he could use to compete in the prestigious Gordon Bennett international balloon race.

And this is where the link to the mildly malodorous Battersea alleyway comes in. The Short Brothers had made their very first balloons in an upstairs room above a business run by their older brother Horace in Hove. They didn’t stay there for long, because in 1903 Horace moved location to set up a new project developing steam turbines development with Charles Parsons (which went on to become a successful venture – but that’s a story for another day). Eustace and Oswald briefly relocated their business to some rented accommodation in Tottenham Court Road, before finding a more permanent home in two railway arches just off the Queens Circus, near Battersea Park station.

Embed from Getty Images

Charles Rolls is pictured above in his racing balloon, called Britannia, which was the first one that the Short brothers made in their new Battersea factory. The buildings in the background are the long-lost Battersea gas works. As far as we can tell the balloon they built for Charles didn’t win the race, but it did provide excellent publicity for the Short Brothers and led to a whole bundle of orders, turning their balloon-making venture in to quite a thriving business.

The move to Battersea was a wise one: railway arches were cheap to lease, they had loads of available space suitable for industrial uses, and maybe above all, these particular arches were conveniently situated right next to the Battersea gas works. Unlike modern ‘hot air balloons’, these early balloons weren’t filled with hot air, but instead with the ‘town gas’ that powered the UK’s gas system for decades until we started to use North Sea gas. This ‘town gas’ was a mix of carbon monoxide and hydrogen, which was made from coal at the gasworks. It was rather toxic and dangerous, but the hydrogen content meant that it was lighter than air – perfect for filling balloons! And being right next to one of the biggest gasworks in London was very handy for someone designing, testing and selling these balloons.

The photo below, taken in 1906 and part of Getty Images’ Hulton archive, shows a balloon being made in the arches – with canvas and rope being assembled to make the tethering structure.

Embed from Getty Images

This photo shows another part of the Battersea balloon factory, with the ‘cutting table’ where the fabric was shaped to be stitched in to a balloon shape. Again the railway arch is very visible.

Embed from Getty Images

The below is a rare view of the balloons in context, with a pair in front of the railway arches – and one of the now-demolished Battersea gasholders visible to the right. These would have been quite a sight for the neighbours, and it’s maybe surprising how few photos of balloons being tested seem to have survived.

The Short brothers made about thirty balloons while they were in Battersea. Most of them were sold to members of the Royal Aero Club, and stemmed one way or another from that balloon they had sold to Charles Rolls.

Eustace and Oswald were themselves appointed to the Aero Club in 1907 – and the following year they were appointed as the club’s ‘aeronautical engineers’, reflecting a growing interest within the club in aeroplane flights. They were clearly pretty interested in the possibilities of aeroplanes – building their first glider aeroplane the same year. That said, while it was one thing to make a balloon or a glider, making a working aeroplane was a rather different kettle of fish, needing lots of mechanical expertise. The brothers were excellent balloon makers, but they knew they only had a limited knowledge of the more mechanical aspects – which is why they quickly brought their older brother Horace on board, the one who they had previously rented a workshop in Hove from (who had gone on to a steam turbine business where he had acquired a lot of useful mechanical skills).

With all three brothers now working in Battersea, the aircraft business grew quickly. The first two orders for aircraft arrived almost straight away – both from members of the Aero club. And sure enough, one of the first orders was from Charles Rolls, who had ordered the racing balloon from the brothers a few years beforehand! Horace started work on two aeroplane designs as soon as he arrived in Battersea, and the Short No.1 biplane – or at least the wooden frame, as it wasn’t quite finished yet – was shown off to the public in March 1909, at the first British Aero Show at Kensington Olympia. The picture below shows the Battersea-built aeroplane. Unfortunately the plane wasn’t especially well designed and never actually flew! The brothers had all sorts of headaches getting an engine that was light enough, while also being strong enough to fly without making the plane overbalance. On the fourth test flight the plane very nearly took off but stalled, and its undercarriage and propellers were damaged.

You might think this would be a disappointment to the buyer, Francis McClean – but despite having crashed his new plane before even managing to get is to take off he clearly found all this pioneering and sometimes messy activity in the very early days of flight rather exciting, and immediately ordered another plane! Conveniently the Short brothers had also obtained the British rights to build copies of the American Wright aeroplane design, and made him one of these – which he clearly also liked, as he went on to order several more.

The Short brothers’ aircraft business grew fast. They received a £1,200 order for six aeroplanes in March 1909 – the same month they exhibited their first aeroplane – which was the first contract for a batch of airplanes in the UK. This was the beginning of mass production, and the brothers realised they needed a large site with space for aeroplanes to take off – and a gasworks in Battersea wouldn’t work for that – so they developed a site in Sheppey, with a factory right next to an airfield. In October the same year, their second airplane, the Short biplane No.2, became the first plane to fly a mile – and in doing so won a £1,000 prize from the Daily Mail. Starting from a railway arch in Battersea, the brothers had made history as the UK’s first sellers of a working plane, and this was the start of the UK’s aircraft industry.

The Short brothers went on to become a world-famous name in aviation, building a wide range of aeroplanes and flying boats. Horace died in 1917, and Oswald took over responsibility for design – doing pioneering work in all-metal aircraft construction. The firm’s planes gave important service in both World Wars, and in the 1940s the company moved from Kent even larger premises in Belfast. Shorts became a major maker of commercial aircraft, eventually being acquired by the Canadian company Bombardier in 1989.

As the aeroplane line of the Short brothers’ business went from strength to strength, the focus gradually drifted away from the railway arches in Battersea. The brothers carried on making balloons and ‘lighter than air’ craft at the site for a surprisingly long time, even when it had become clear that the aeroplane business was the future, and only finally left Battersea in 1919. The arches behind the petrol station at Queens Circus are now home to a mix of small businesses – hidden away just out of sight of the crowds of people at the power station, the railway stations and Battersea Park. But for those who do venture down the alleyway, the blue plaque stands as testament to how this overlooked corner of Battersea gave birth to the UK’s aerospace industry.

We’ve also posted an article about how Hilda Hewlett, one of the pioneering women of Battersea, set up a fully fledged airplane factory just down the road from Clapham Junction.And if you find our occasional local history articles of interest, you may enjoy a long article on the complicated history of the Cedars Road estate, a similarly detailed look at the past of Culvert Place, a photo story about the Shaftesbury Estate drawing on its conservation designation, an article about the cluster of derelict buildings around the old Artesian Well bar on Clapham North street, a very detailed history of Rush Hill Road, and an article about the area around Falcon Lane that dives in to the area’s messy past and some scary 1970s road-building projects that very nearly got built! We’re grateful for the more detailed information provided on the Battersea balloon & aeroplane factory by English Heritage, as well as the particularly rich history that’s well worth a detour at Graces Guide.

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After decades of service, Hill Launderette fades in to history

Hill Launderette is one of the longest established businesses on Lavender Hill – we don’t know when it started but it has spanned many decades. It stayed surprisigly well used, even as washing machines & tumble dryers became more widespread in houses and flats. The combination of quick and efficient washing for even the largest items – some of the machines were huge! – with big, powerful dryers that can deal with a large load in 20 minutes, clearly remained attractive. With fourteen washing machines and seven dryers, queues were rare.

Prices varied from £3 for a wash in the 16lb machines, to £6 for the biggest 40lb machine. Three minutes in the dryer would set you back 20p, and these dryers were quick! Many launderettes feel a bit of a throwback to the 1960s (and as somewhat iconic locations it’s not been unusual to see them as backdrops for photography) and the Hill Launderette certainly had quite a classic appearance. But it had moved with the times – with a fairly comprehensive website including detailed prices and services, and a small social media presence.

As a fully staffed launderette, it offered quite a wide range of services, going beyond the self service clean options to include dry cleaning within a day, and repairs and alterations, as well as a duvet service, and expert cleaning of curtains, rugs and soft furnishings. Dry cleaning a suit would be £5, a jacket £2, and you could have ten shirts washed & pressed for £10.

But the launderette closed a couple of months ago, initially with a note on the doors referring to ‘technical problems’, with a number to contact for enquiries. As days stretched in to weeks, it started to look as though the technical problems had turned in to a more fundamental issue about the future of the launderette, and sure enough – the machines started to be removed, presumably being sold to other launderettes.

In case there remained any doubt that this was the end of the line for Hill Launderette, at the end of April a planning application was made to the Council to change the use of the site from “Commercial, Business and service uses” (which includes launderettes) to “Financial & Professional Services“, which includes things like estate agents and employment agencies.

And as time went on, the underlying infrastructure also disappeared – with dry cleaning equipment removed, and revealing plumbing and electrics that had been hidden away for decades. We’re hoping someone rescues the pot plants before the strip out is completed.

Some of our readers will have long memories of watching clothes spin round here, and even more occasional visitors like your author appreciated the helpful and friendly service when we dropped in for duvets and complicated items. And as it fades away into Lavender Hill’s history we’d like to pay tribute to Hill Launderette – less glamorous than the bars and restaurants that increasingly surround it on the street, never the sort of place that makes the headlines – but one of those little things we all take for granted, with the team keeping it open for long hours seven days a week, and quietly and efficiently helping keep Lavender Hill’s clothes clean for decades.

It’s not all over for local launderettes. We still have the Lavender Launderette a few doors down at 13 Lavender Hill – pictured above at some point in the early 1960s (when it had a rather impressive sign spanning Wix’s lane, and when there was an empty ‘space ‘bombsite’ space where Caffe Nero now sits that lasted for decades until it was rebuilt in a joint project with the similar-looking building opposite that houses Sainsbury’s). We also have Lily’s Launderette nearer Clapham Junction at 229 Lavender Hill – both of which are still going strong.

(former) Hill Launderette, 41 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5QW.

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