There’s a new arrival on Lavender Hill: Lane Eight Coffee opened a couple of weeks ago at No. 125 (at the corner of Stormont Road, opposite the Church of the Ascension). Lane Eight will be familiar to some of our readers, as they’ve been trading from a tiny little branch more or less opposite the entrance to Clapham Common tube station for a couple of years (and before that, they ran a site in east Dulwich). Lane Eight offer a small selection of top quality coffee – as well as a premium ceremonial Matcha on the menu, that owner George and his partner sourced from Kyushu, Japan.
The focus here is unashamedly on the coffee – which is sourced and roasted by Red Bank coffee in Kendal, a location your author happens to know well! Kendal is a market town in the Lake District, right on the edge of the most touristy area – and it has developed quite as strong coffee culture of its own (and a note for Kendal people: Red Banks roastery is just off the mysterious ‘private road’ that works as a short cut to the by pass between Kendal and Underbarrow, where you occasionally pay 50p to the chap in high viz).
Red Bank source coffees from a network of small producers they go out and visit annually, and roast their beans on site in Kendal. They’re a are a certified B Corp, and put 2% of their revenue to rewilding projects in the Lake District, donations to Growing Well, an organic farm and mental health charity (for Kendal people – they’re right next to Low Sizergh farm between Kendal & the M6, the one where you can watch the cows being milked), and donations to their importing partner Raw Material, a not-for-profit social enterprise that exists to improve the lives and working conditions of the producers that they work with.
There’s a clear design approach at Lane Eight’s new venture: 125 Lavender Hill is a good quality corner unit, blessed with huge windows and lots of light, that previously spent a good few years as a sash window showroom, and before that as an estate agents. Owner George Rendall has a strong interest in design (as well as running, hence the name), and his fit out of the space has done it justice, keeping things clean and simple, with a feel of air and space – with pared-back look keeps the focus on the coffeemaking, and provides for a moment of calm. The same approach is visible in his other branch at 6, the Pavement on Clapham high street, but the space on Lavender Hill has clearly given much more room to run with the theme.
A large central coffee counter is coated with Mortex (a sort of waxed concrete) and has all the services built in, to make things tidy and efficient. The walls and ceiling have a lime wash texture, and the floor was completely replaced as part of the works, while some quality carpentry also went in to the long dark wood bench along the windows, that also conceals the heating system.
The space on offer allows for a different feel to the other branch – with a deliberately slower pace. The aim is to create a moment of calm away from busy life, echoing the peaceful landscapes and quiet calmness of the Lake District that roasts the coffee but also inspired some of the design, with soft features, wood textures and open space. Three tables are on the way – which will make the space work a little better than it does at the moment – but these will be coffee tables; the aim here’s not really at packing it with seating to make an all-day ‘work on your laptop’ place. There’s no food currently on offer (not least as there’s not space for a kitchen – bearing in mind that the back of the premises, that used to be even larger, were converted to a separate flat a few years ago).
Some might say Lavender Hill’s already rather well stocked with coffee shops. In the last year we’ve seen Phreshopening up with a coffee- and fresh juice venture, now supplemented by a proper food option as well (cue the Quality All Day Breakfast klaxon!), and within a few weeks Pique, as well as Turkish-inspired Spread(opposite Harley’s, and Spread also make a fine coffee – article to follow). Coupled with long established Italian-angled Il Molino, Portuguese bakery Sweet Smile which has its own proper fully equipped bakery at the back and sells freshly baked loaves as well as coffee, Abruzzo specialist Maiella Worth, the big chains like Caffe Nero, and the one that arguably started it all, Sendero – the market may seem crowded. But it’;’s also fair to say our many coffee options all have their own niches, and the large local population, a fair few of whom work at home at least part of the week (and a small but noticeable degree of tourist trade) have clearly created a surprisingly large local demand for all things caffeinated.
And we may only be a couple of weeks in, but Lane Eight’s new venture has clearly found its market. George’s first branch recently got a mention in Vogue (quoted below) in their feature on where to find the best coffee in London, and word has spread quickly on his new opening on Lavender Hill. We’ve been impressed by the coffee, as well as the high standard this has all been done to, and we think this brings something a bit different to Lavender Hill’s extensive choice of coffee. Do visit and see what you reckon!
Lane Eight Coffee, 125 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5QJ (instagram). Monday to Sunday, 8am-4pm (at the time of writing).We post from time to time on retail developments in the Lavender Hill area of Battersea, London – if you found this of interest you may want to see our other recent posts on retail and on food and drink in the area, or to sign up to receive new posts by email.
84 Lavender Sweep doesn’t exactly stand out from the crowd. A terrace like the others, just off Battersea Rise, the only thing that’s a little different at first glance is the rather elegant arched window above the inner front door, that looks like a throwback to a much older generation of houses. And that’s exactly what it is – because it was rescued and recycled from the previous house on the site, pictured below (the windows’s admittedly a bit buried by ivy in that photo, but it was also above the front door).
The original Lavender Sweep House was part of the first generation of development in the area, which saw it change from open fields to a landscape dominated by big villas. There may be close to 100 terraced houses there now, but in the mid-1800s there were just four much bigger ones, and this was the grandest of them all. The photo below shows Lavender Sweep as a leafy carriageway, a very different place to what we see now, but whose curve is already visible – and it’s that curve which led to it being called the Sweep (one of very few sweeps in London) . The Sweep was described by a visitor at the time as having ‘horse-chestnut blossoms strewing the drive, and making it look like a tessellated pavement’.
Between 1817 and 1880, the big house was home to Tom Taylor – who was a man of many telents, including playwright, art critic, civil servant, poet, artist, Professor of English literature at University College London. Tom was also the editor of Punch magazine, and wrote Our American Cousin– the play Abraham Lincoln was watching when he was assassinated! He was an amateur actor who co-founded the Old Stagers – the longest running amateur theatre group in the world (who are still up and running today – they’re now based in Canterbury). In this photo of the Stagers, Tom’s the one sat on the right with a wooden sword. As if all that wasn’t enough to keep him busy, he was also a notable supporter of the early campaign to save Wandsworth Common when it looked set to be overrun with new building projects.
Tom wasn’t the only notable resident, as Lavender Sweep House was also home to his wife Laura Barker. She was already established as a musician and composer by the time she met and married Tom and they came to live in Lavender Sweep. First introduced to violin and piano by her parents, Laura had studied with the composer and pianist Philip Cipriani Potter, and got to know many more musicians as a teenager thanks to her parents’ keen interest – her dad took the whole family to concerts in surprisingly wide mix of places including Leeds, Hull and Norwich, and as a bit of a superfan ahead of his time, got to know many of the musicians at a personal level.
Laura started publishing compositions, which were received enthusiastically by the public and the press; and became a widely respected composer. Many of her works are based on texts by the writer Alfred Tennyson – who in addition to being Poet Laureate, bought 27 houses on the Queenstown Road in Battersea, which coincidentally seem to have included the one that we posted about earlier this week! Laura had inherited a Stradivarius violin (which somehow became known as The Tom Taylor Strad even though she had acquired before she ever met him). She also taught music at the York School for the Blind.
Laura and Tom held regular Sunday music concerts and were clearly noted for their hospitality, and Lavender Sweep House became quite a well known place, described at the time as a ‘house of call for everyone of note’, from politicians, including Mazzini, to artists and actors, all presided over by Taylor himself dressed in ‘black-silk knee-breeches and velvet cutaway coat’. It was visited by a good range of well-known Victorians including Charles Dickens, Lord Tennyson the Poet Laureate, actress Ellen Terry, pianist and composer Clara Schumann, Jeanie Nassau Senior who was the first woman to be appointed as a civil servant (and who was a local living just down the road – who we’ve previously written about) – and author Lewis Carroll who photographed the house. The house was Taylor added a large study ‘to his own design’. A visitor in the 1870s found every wall in the house, even in the bathrooms, covered with pictures; a pet owl perched on a bust of Minerva; and a dining room ‘where Lambeth Faience and Venetian glass abound’
The painting to the right is of Tom and Laura’s son Wycliffe, painted by Millais when he was five. Tom had been was an early champion of Millais’s work, and Wycliffe’s portrait was apparently painted in fulfilment of a promise that Millais made to Taylor before John Wycliffe Taylor was born – that if Tom ever had a son, Millais would paint him in return for Taylor’s ‘many an act of friendly kindness’. The photo of Laura and Wycliffe below was taken by Alice in Wonderland author Lewis Carroll (who we also have to thank for most of the surviving photos of Tom and Laura’s house). Maybe being painted by an artist became a source of inspiration, as Wycliff went on to become an artist himself.
Tom died in 1880, with Laura living to 1905 – publishing several further compositions, including the “Songs of Youth”, which were published in 1884 by Stanley Lucas, Weber & Co. in London. In the “Musical Times,” a reviewer wrote, “This volume of songs is a welcome contribution to the high-class vocal music of the day. With the exception of The Owls, ‘the words of which are by the composer, the poetry is not selected from the works of any living author; but all the subjects are well-chosen and admirably adapted for musical setting. ‘Mariana’s Song,’ from Shakespeare’s’ Measure for Measure, ‘and the Dirge,’ Yes, thou may’st sigh, ‘from Scott’s, Fair Maid of Perth,’ are excellent compositions; but this song with songs is a welcome contribution to today’s world-class vocal music.’. She was also a talented artist, with several paintings surviving.
Of course, it wasn’t to last – as we’ve covered in other articles like our detailed history of Rush Hill Road, the rural landscape of country houses around Lavender Hill saw huge changes in the late 1800s, with the destruction of almost everything as the railways arrived and brought with them an explosion of factories, terraced houses, and dense city streets. Laura and Tom would be Lavender Sweep House’s final owners. In her later years Laura moved to Porch House in Coleshill, Berkshire with her daughter Lucy and two servants, both of whom had worked for the family in London. A few years later, when Tom’s friend the actor John Coleman went to look for the house, he found that ‘not a stone remains … and the demon jerry-builder reigns triumphant’. A very different Lavender Sweep was under construction.
But it’s worth remembering that there was a different world before what we have now, and that it was inhabited by pioneering and interesting people. The Battersea Society have for some years been working to recognise the history of many of our buildings (and former buildings where nothing’s left except memories and a single window), and this Saturday a Battersea Society blue plaque will be unveiled to them both, outside 84 Lavender Sweep. The plaque will be unveiled by Lord Fred Ponsonby and actor Alun Armstrong, alongside Mayor of Wandsworth Sana Jafri, and the CEO of Wandle Housing Association (who now own the property). A descendant of Laura Barker will play her music. Everyone’s welcome – do join the unveiling if you can.
This latest plaque owes a lot to Jeanne Rathbone, who has been a driving force behind telling the story of the many inspiring people – and especially the often somewhat overlooked women – who have made their lives and careers in Battersea. Jeanne is also a woman of many talents, among them local historian, comedian, one time Council Women’s Officer, former alcohol counsellor, humanist celebrant, and author of Inspiring Women of Battersea (available to buy for under £10 here – it’s well worth a read!). She has published far more detailed accounts than we cover here of the lives of both Laura and Tom, and run several Notable Women of Lavender Hill walks.
All welcome at the unveiling of the Battersea Society plaque marking the site of Lavender Sweep House, home to playwright Tom Taylor (1817-1880) and composer Laura Barker (1819-1905). Saturday 28th September 2024, 2pm, Outside 84 Lavender Sweep, SW11 1EA. Full details are on the Battersea Society’s website here. If this was of interest you may want to see our previous article on the inspiring women of Battersea. Our occasional (but sometimes detailed) local history articles are here.
Everyone likes a good ‘before & after’ property makeover, and the building on the corner of Queenstown Road and Battersea Park road has been needing one for a while! A rather manky-looking building, it would logically have been absorbed by the development next to it, Taylor Wimpey’s Battersea Exchange – but no price was ever agreed and so it stayed separate as that development continued around it. It has now changed hands – and the new owner of 179 Battersea Park Road has given it a long-overdue sprucing up.
The windows have been replaced, including the ground floor that had lost its windows years ago. The whole building has seen a repaint, which has lost the original brick but has given it a bit more visual consistency. The balcony had been collapsing, and one bit seemed to be held together with a few metal struts; this has now also seen some repairs. The buddleia trees that were growing in the brickwork have been removed, the once-smart stone carvings on the first floor balcony and second storey window surrounds have regained some of their original style, and the battered and bruised facades have been patched and filled.
This had been a very sad and unloved building. It was so mucky-looking that the tenants at one stage added a banner saying ‘This is not a public rubbish site !!!‘ in a seemingly only partially successful attempt to discourage people from adding to the mattresses, boxes and general detritus around the site. The shop on the ground floor felt the brunt of the decline of the building, as it just didn’t look clean or in any way welcoming; the building also contained three flats on the upper levels and a basement used for storage, whose main access was via a basement hatch in he shop.
One detail we like in the renovation work is that one of the very few Space Invaders in Battersea, on a ground floor window frame of the building, has been preserved! One of the first businesses we ever wrote about was Sendero Coffee on Lavender Hill, whose second branch is right next to this building; we suspect they’ll be pleased to have something that doesn’t look like it’s full of rats and about to fall down next door.
There’s a small outside space that used to be full of wheelie bins and flytipped rubbish, but which could – with some more work – become a useful space for a business to use, or alternatively with a bit of demolition of the structure next to the pavement to get a bit more light down to that level, could allow the rather hidden away basement courtyard to be opened up and that floor of the building used as a fourth flat. The long-lost windows of that floor have been replaced, which does suggest some scope for this.
This building is part of the original Park Town Estate, the huge planned estate that ran all the way from here to Clapham Common. It started out as a hugely ambitious plan, and then the railways arrived and chopped it up and made it all rather less grand, and the later stages were aimed at a more middle-of-the-market set of buyers. There are others of similar design scattered around the neighbourhood, including several opposite Queenstown Road Station and a few much further south around St Mary’s Church.
One small detail is that the previous owners put in a whole series of applications to install a vast advertising hoarding on the site, typically via schemes where the owner puts a scaffolding for a year or more, and leases the advertising space to a separate company that essentially pays for the scaffolding and the site. Wandsworth’s planners weren’t convinced by these proposals, quite rightly in our view – they essentially lead to a vast illuminated eyesore. Because adverts make money, these schemes also give a dubious incentive for developers to keep the scaffolding up and obstructing the pavement for years, rather than the weeks or months needed to complete any works (and these works were done in hardly any time at all). There’s one currently still in the planning appeal system at the time of writing.
Overall while it’s not a top-of-the-range effort – the new windows used are towards the more budget end of the market! – this is a generally solid property restoration effort that has made this a much happier and healthier looking building, and – thanks to its hugely prominent location on one of Battersea’s busiest junctions – has made the whole area look a bit more welcoming. The ground floor in particular will be a much better unit than it was before.
179 Battersea Park Road, London SW8 4LR, where we’ll presumably see newly-upgraded flats and a shop unit for sale or to rent in the near future. If you’re interested in obscure local property news in and around Lavender Hill in Battersea you could do worse than see our other articles on planning and development issues. Our occasional much more in depth local history posts are here. And this is where you can get in touch or receive posts by email.
This post on crime covers topics some readers may find disturbing. Late last year, some unsavoury characters turned up on Lavender Hill. Four men, rough-looking, roaming round with the oddly bouncy, ‘on a mission’ type walk walk that seems to go with a serious heroin addiction. What followed was a few months of petty crime to a level we’d not really seen before. First up was the parcel thefts – hundreds and hundreds of them, lifted from doorsteps where they’d been left by rushed delivery drivers, opened on the next street along, and more often that not dumped if the contents weren’t resellable. Our shops felt the heat as the ‘gang of four’ grew more confident and started helping themselves to whatever they wanted. They’d get very aggressive when anyone tried to stop them. Anything left in a parked car that looked in interesting was also fair game, as well as the odd bike (though bikes seemed not to be a major draw for them). They weren’t subtle, injecting themselves on garden walls and being so brazen in the shops that the security guards grew to recognise them and bar them from entry, sometimes helped by customers who grew to recognise them too. But they were cleverer than many suspected, and teamed up with some more sophisticated thieves to ransack some flats just before Christmas, using a few tricks we’ll talk about in a moment to walk away with goods worth thousands. These final big steals were the end: maybe sensing the heat was on, as our local police gained an ever growing stack of evidence to take them down, and as residents got wise to the need for some more robust security arrangements, they moved on to rob and harass some other neighbourhood – and we’ve not seen them since.
But there has been a concerning trend more generally of some types of crime increasing, with some real hotpots and a handful of serious incidents. In this article we take a look at the various types of crime that go on in the Lavender Hill area, how we fare compared to other areas, and what you can do to keep yourselves and your property safe (because try as they like, there are some types of crime our police team can’t solve without your help). We also explore the role of our local neighbourhood police team – because we don’t think everyone realises that there’s a team who specifically cover this area of Clapham Junction! – including who they are and what they do, how they work, and how you can meet them and help them keep Lavender Hill as one of the safest bits of inner London.
Let’s start with the statistics. The graph below shows what crime was recorded in the three months between March and June, in the most common categories of crime, just in Lavender Ward (which covers St John’s Road and the area south of Lavender Hill). Generalised category of ‘other theft’ kicks off the list – a wide category which includes parcels stolen from doorsteps, phones stolen in ways other than being snatched from people, and even a mysterious woman who keeps digging up plants from front gardens. At 50 crimes in three months you may be thinking this sounds a bit low, as we all know there were hundreds of cases – but the statistics reflect the fact that only the high-value thefts tend to get reported. It’s closely followed by shoplifting, focussed on the St John’s Road area but with a notable small cluster at the Co-op (the graph for Lavender Ward doesn’t include many of the shops north of Lavender Hill like Asda, or the shops at the eastern end of the street, but they see their share of shoplifting action too). There were 26 minor assaults and 15 more serious ones that led to injury, 26 ‘robberies’ from the person’ offences (often snatched phones, but this covers the whole range of mugging offences), 26 thefts from cars and 16 stolen cars, and 13 burglaries of business & community use premises (which we understand is mostly shops and cafes after hours).
People always think crime has increased! But according to the statistics at least (which are available in glorious detail on the police database for Lavender and Shaftesbury & Queenstown Wards), the overall crime rate here has remained pretty flat over the last few years, and Wandsworth remains a low-crime area by London standards. This graph shows the number of recorded crimes per 1000 people across the Boroughs, with Wandsworth somewhat below the average, and well below some of our neighbouring Boroughs – we’re grouped with a bundle of outer Boroughs. Obviously all statistics need to be handled with caution: Westminster at first glance looks like a terrifying den of rampant lawlessness, but that’s because it has millions of visitors and only a handful of residents, so rather more crimes-per-resident than most. The same to some extent goes for Camden and Kensington & Chelsea. Lambeth next door is more interesting, it has rather higher crime, which reflects a cluster of incidents in the busy area round Vauxhall but also heaps of crime in Brixton – with the Brixton Windrush Ward, which covers the area east of Brixton Road, really standing out.
But statistics only tell part of the story. Crime can cut deep in to people’s sense of wellbeing, and even if we’re a relatively safe area, the villains are in our midst! The impetus for this article is a recent case where two casual thieves were cycling about in the early evening looking to see what they could steal from shops, cars or front gardens. They got subtly moved on a few times by eagle-eyed residents who made it clear enough that they were being observed. Clearly getting frustrated, they spotted a Tesco delivery driver unloading a home shop in one of the quiet residential streets. When he tried to stop them thieving from the van they got the knives out and tried to kill him; luckily residents intervened and while seriously injured his days aren’t in danger – but it added to a sense that some types of crime are getting out of hand, and it’s only a matter of time until someone doing their job doesn’t get to go back to their home and family at the end of the day. This has prompted us to take a look at what we can all do to keep the area safe.
Personal safety: Assault, injury, violence, and robbery
The good news is there were no murders in the two wards that cover Lavender Hill this year, and that’s usually the case (albeit there was one case this year on the Queenstown Road, just outside the boundary of our statistics, where we understand both the assailant and the victim suffered from a variety of wider challenges). But there were 15 ‘assaults with injury’ in three months, and there’s a consistent level of wider personal safety related offenses. The main area for assaults, violence, and sexual offences is exactly where you’d probably expect it, on the busy streets round the station, and typically these occur late in the evening.
There were almost as many cases of robbery, a type of aggravated theft defined as stealing while using force or putting someone in fear of force, which is considered a serious offense by the Met Police. Factors typically considered when sentencing criminals for robbery include if the victim suffered serious physical or psychological harm, and if the robbery had a serious detrimental effect on a business. The map below shows the distribution of cases of robbery in the last three months, again for Lavender ward, with the trend again being for offences to be clustered around the busy area in St John’s Road, often characterised by more aggressive theft from younger people.
When it comes to the quieter eastern end of the ward we’re fortunate in that Lavender Hill happens to have an urban layout that, to use the industry jargon, is fairly ‘secure by design’ – with a main street which is busy more or less all night, and straightish side streets that mostly have a dense and close knit network of houses overlooking them on both sides, which aren’t too helpful to some types of criminal and which discourage some types of ambush attack. There’s also a pretty robust CCTV network covering all the main areas, and the Borough’s only full time police station – pictured at the top of this article – is of course right in the middle of Lavender Hill, not that our police team sit about there all day.
This isn’t a crime typology that’s out of control here, but there does seem to be a trend of lower level criminals, typically stealing on a sustained basis to feed addictions, gaining a local foothold and escalating their activity to the point where their level of violence goes up – we’re aware of some incidents where employees of shops on Lavender Hill have been attacked and suffered minor injuries. The attack on the Tesco delivery driver was unusual – although loosely similar cases have been happening for a while in and around Brixton, with a trend for e-bikes being stolen-with-violence from couriers.
Property crimes: burglary and theft
Daytime house burglary used to be the absolute bread and butter of our local crime statistics, as – being an inner suburb full of people who travel to work – a lot of houses and flats were conveniently empty all day, and full of interesting things to steal. Some houses were more vulnerable than others: those with overgrown passageways running to back garden gates were prime targets as the back access proved an ideal way to quietly gain entrance, force a back window open, snatch a few high value resellable items, and be gone before anyone noticed. The increase in working from home, maybe coupled with a slight increase in the security of many houses, has changed this a bit: old-school burglary is down to the extent that it doesn’t feature in the most-reported crimes, but we’ve seen a small growth in early-evening theft – as the darkness makes it easier to go for the obviously unoccupied properties. With lots of wider activity in the early evening the odd bang or crash is unlikely to make any neighbours’ ears prick as being suspicious. Terraced houses split in to flats are the best target, as they typically have a weak and under-secured front door which can be easily forced (probably fitted with the cheapest, nastiest lock the landlord could get hold of, and even where there’s a second lock that is more of a deadbolt, these tend not to be used as who knows if upstairs is in?). A good mule kick at the door will often open it, and once inside thieves can then take as long as they like to break their way through the internal doors to the flats. The ‘fake’ Deliveroo driver has been a recurring theme in some of the most recent Lavender Hill burglaries, who uses his uniform to loiter around keeping an eye on places to rob without attracting any attention, and more ingeniously, uses his large Deliveroo large backpack (sized to handle a large heap of pizza boxes) to hide the goods he’s robbed from houses.
Making property more secure. There’s plenty we can do on this front, and a lot of it relies on thieves usually looking for easy targets. A decent solid deadbolt lock helps, but you also need a solid door frame – adding a London Bar frame reinforcer costs about £25, and will avoid locks being knocked off. Keep hedges to a moderate height at the front of buildings as it’s a perfect hiding place, and where feasible ensure entrances are well lit. Old sash windows on ground floors need proper locks to stop them being opened too far – you can buy these for under £5 at Screwfix. Home CCTV cameras & smart doorbells can also help: they won’t necessarily deter masked burglars (no matter what the people selling them say), but they can make it easier to track people down. If you have a back access to a house you’ll want to make it awkward to get over, as a typical 6 foot fence can be easily jumped. Add a solid(ish) trellis – tactically chosen to be strong enough to stay put, but fragile enough that it will break and splinter if climbed on; a decent big motion sensor light can also help. But safety against burglary really comes in numbers, and neighbourhood Whatsapp groups – which emerged in the pandemic and have in many cases gone on to become the core of a new wave of Neighbourhood Watch activity, and are proving a key way to keep an eye on dubious characters and keep streets safe. If you see someone acting like a thief, they probably are a thief – and if you call our neighbourhood police team they can and do stop & search these people; many likely crimes have been nipped in the bud this way around Lavender Hill.
Meanwhile over at the more trivial end of the theft scale – parcels are, inevitably, the most commonly stolen item. Mainly because they’re really easy to steal with almost no risk – you just pick them up from the doorstep, where the latest overworked delivery driver has left them! It’s the bane of online retailers. The month or so before Christmas last year was a truly epic time when it came to parcels going missing, as our local crackheads found themselves like kids in a sweet shop, roaming round the neighbourhood picking up everything, and as they learned the delivery routes, following the drivers rounds to get first pick of the latest deliveries. Once it’s ripped open somewhere out of sight, the more sellable items passed on to shady middlemen for resale. Your parcel’s gone, and given your name and address was on it you’ll probably also pick up a Council fine for flytipping when the packaging (and maybe the contents, if it’s something uninteresting) are dumped a few streets away. Parcel theft tends to be the preserve of local, casual thieves but it does also attract a wider set of dodgy characters to the area; the pre Christmas period in particular saw a wave of increasingly organised parcel theft spread out all over London.
Dealing with parcel theft: The poor standard of some delivery companies amid a race to the bottom on pricing makes this difficult to sort out (though not everyone’s bad – and some of our readers will join us in a special mention to Steven, the most reliable Evri courier in the business!). Really all you can do on this front is get parcels delivered to parcel collection points to make this less of a free-stuff emporium for thieves (and we have lots of parcel shops who do this – Tesco, the Coop, Food & Wine at 8 Lavender Hill, to name just a few – who receive a small fee per parcel they take on our behalf). Some streets have arrangements to take in abandoned parcels for their neighbours if they spot them before they’re stolen. This is a minor and very under-reported crime overall, but reporting thefts is again helpful for police to spot trends and to try to encourage more responsible methods of delivery.
Phone theft is one type of crime that’s relentlessly on the rise, with about 80,000 “snatch thefts” in England and Wales in the year to March, a number that just keeps going up. This is an inner-London crime type, feeding in to quite a complex set of criminal networks. More high-value and desirable phones are sold on for their hardware – with a good number slightly ironically making it back to the somewhat dubious Chinese port of Shenzen, not too far from where they were originally made, where attempts are made to unlock and resell them, or failing that to strip them for parts. There are also attempts at data theft and extortion, based on what is on the phone – with phones stolen while unlocked being especially attractive if they allow quick access to banking or payment apps.
Keeping your phone: This isn’t a crime that the police can arrest their way out of – from the thieves’ perspective it’s easy money for very little effort or skill. A bit like car radios back in the late 1990s before the makers started building them in so they couldn’t be yanked out, the reward-to-effort ratio is really good! To some extent, pressure on the manufacturers to make their phones harder to re-engineer and resell will help, but that will take time to feed through to the market. For the time being situational awareness is everything when it comes to snatch thefts – resisting the temptation to get phones out on street corners outside stations – and all the ‘obvious target’ places you will have seen this crime in practice. That, and keeping an eye out on the surroundings. Put simply, if there are two people in balaclavas on a moped, it’s time to get the phones out of sight! But more generally, having important data and contacts backed up, and knowing how to lock and as far as you can delete content on the phone after a theft via Find my Phone is the best approach here. Our local police can and do recover stashes of stolen phones when they raid the premises of known thieves, and knowing your IMEI number (a unique code identifying every phone handset – to find it type *#06# on the keypad and note the number down somewhere that’s not on your phone) will make you a lot more likely to see your phone again if it is recovered.
Vehicle theft: A crime on the rise
There’s a lot of crime linked to parked vehicles. This splits in to two rather distinct types of crime, and types of criminal! Theft of cars is the one that attracts the maybe more sophisticated thief, where parts of London with high-value cars see groups scout out cars to steal, with a clear idea of what they are looking for. There’s not much point travelling to Lavender Hill to steal a Ford Fiesta when you can pick one up from a hidden away driveway in an empty house out in the suburbs and be off to the motorway or the typically edge-of-town chop shop in no time without going past any cameras or vehicle tracking systems. Instead Lavender Hill mainly gets on to the car thieves’ radar when they’re looking for high end cars, and frankly we have plenty of them parked on the streets. The stolen vehicles will be replated, hidden away in containers, and shipped overseas, or dismantled to service the high-value spare parts market. The cleverest thieves will swap the identity of a stolen-but-intact car for one that was severely damaged in an accident, and hey presto, nearly-new car without a history of being stolen. Keyless entry vehicles are still the preferred targets because they often have poorly designed security features that make them fairly trivial easy to steal, equipped only with some relatively cheap kit you can buy online. Range rovers were the absolute classic – chances are you’ve also seen them being chased around the streets with the police in pursuit! Despite attempts to make them more secure, the thieves’ technology continues to evolve faster than the vehicles’ security.
Vehicle theft across the country is up 35% since October 2022 – helped by the value of second hand cars also increasing. The map above shows the cars stolen in the area south of Lavender Hill over three months (16 of them) as green dots; it’s a similar story north of Lavender Hill. Bear in mind that vehicle theft, as a high value crime where insurers will be involved, is more likely to be reported than other crimes. London’s by no means the worst area in the UK for car thefts – that’s the West Midlands! – though it’s above average.
Motor vehicle crime, both theft of and from cars, is one of our local Ward police force’s top three current priorities. They have been using the patterns in reports and thefts to identify locations for patrols and potential offenders, while also doing what they can to spread the word about what we can all do to discourage this type of crime through social media and engagement with local residents.
Reducing theft of cars: Some of the obvious tactics to reduce car theft are to use a sturdy lock for the steering wheel (preferably a disc lock), pedals or gearstick, and have your car’s registration number etched onto the windows. These might be old-school deterrents harking back to the 1990s, but they’re making a comeback in the digital age, especially as a response to the weakening of cars’ own security thanks to ongoing problems with trying-to-be-too-clever keyless entry technologies. Thieves might pass on a car they perceive to be too much hassle. Another option is brake locks, which means if a driver manager to get in and start the vehicle, it is harder to make a getaway. Fitting a GPS / mobile tracking device won’t prevent a vehicle from being stolen, but it will increase the chances of it being recovered before it’s gone for good. Thieves leave a stolen car somewhere else in London for a few days to see if it gets recovered – if not then there’s probably no residual tracking on it. We’ve heard of vehicles being stashed away in all sorts of places, even including private underground parking garages in east London! These devices aren’t just for high-end cars: most vehicles stolen & recovered are worth less than £20,000, with about a quarter in the £5,000 range.
Some vehicle crimes are falling. A few years ago it was all about catalytic converters being stolen – with some makes and models being especially attractive: Toyota Prius & Auris, Honda Jazz & CR-V, and Lexus RX were unlucky enough to have easy-to-access converters; and hybrid cars were also popular for theft as the converters tended to be in better condition. This was mainly but not entirely a suburban crime, with much less of this here than in outer boroughs – and it seemingly peaked in 2020 when the Metropolitan Police investigated 15,000 reports across the city. The rate of theft has dropped steeply since as metal prices have fallen and other crimes have proved more attractive, and is down to 200 or so cases a year across Wandsworth, well under than half what we were seeing a few years ago. There have also been a few fairly isolated cases of components being stolen from cars – from bumpers and lights to steering wheels and airbags – again to supply the parts market.
The other type of vehicle crime is theft from cars. This one’s not feeding in to complex networks moving cars and parts around Europe, it’s just the local addicts spotting interesting things left in cars and breaking the windows to get them. They also walk the streets in the early hours seeing if doors have been left unlocked (and they surprisingly often have been!). The damage will usually cost more than the value of what’s stolen.
Reducing theft from vehicles: There’s very little that the police can do on these crimes – but there’s something very easy that we can do – in particular, not leaving things on view in parked cars! It’s staggering how much is left on display. Even junk stored in a car can look potentially interesting to a crackhead in a dimly lit street at 2am. If you really can;t avoid leaving things on view, choose your parking space carefully, because some areas are worse than others – the ends of streets where the front windows of the houses don’t face the parked cars are particular hotspots and occasionally see daytime as well as after-dark theft.
Antisocial behaviour
Antisocial behaviour is a small but persistent type of crime here, centered mainly in the busy streets around the station but with some incidents also scattered around the whole of the ward – mainly tied to aggressive behaviour, open drug dealing and use, and occasional incidents like someone setting fire to one of our corner shops in the middle of the day that could have led to major damage and maybe loss of life if it hadn’t been caught in time. The area round Battersea Arts Centre has sometimes seen problematic late night activity, and there were also problems linked to the ‘stolen bikes’ encampment in the Asda car park, which is unsecured at night and where the owners struggled to keep the site safe after hours, though this has now been moved on.
These aren’t especially easy cases to solve, as they often have at their root cause a cocktail of alcoholism and wider addictions, and mental health challenges, which are a difficult societal problem to solve, and go well beyond the capability of our police team or indeed the scope of this article! But making the streets a difficult place to behave badly does work and moves people on to less well managed bits of town, and keeps our town centre a good place to live and do business. Our local police team are currently prioritising work to tackle antisocial behaviour in the ward, especially that linked to a group of known beggars who work outside Clapham Junction Train Station, along St. Johns Road and St. Johns Hill. The main focus is high-visibility patrols to their favoured locations, and using the relatively broad legislation to issue warnings, Community Protection warnings and Community Protection Notices. As a resident or trader, the key thing is to feed in reports and intelligence, as this is what gives them the ability to act and to focus efforts!
The challenge for retailers
The last two years have seen a rapid, and concerning, escalation in the volume of retail crime, right across the country: shoplifting, threats and violence against staff, outright looting of stores. We’re not talking about people pocketing some food while struggling to survive – we know this exists and that it’s grown a bit as the economy has gone south. What we’re seeing here is active, large scale theft, with violence and weapons, being run by well-organised criminal networks – people bringing big holdalls in and stealing the entire stock of meat or coffee, or holding the staff up at knifepoint while they raid the entire stock of cigarettes and spirits, that sort of thing. The rate of theft has reached the highest levels since records began 20 years ago,
It’s an issue that has gained nationwide attention, and become a priority for the government. A previous downgrading of the way shoplifting was treated saw thefts with a value under £200 would treated as a new “low value” crime category. Theresa May, then home secretary, hoped this would speed things up and allow police to deal with these offences by post. It backfired rather spectacularly, because it meant most police forces deprioritised shoplifting – not really bothering to get involved in ‘small’ thefts even if there are several of them an hour by the same people. And if there’s one thing we’ve learnt, it’s that crime will focus on whatever is easiest – and the deprioritising of these offences has been described as a ‘shoplifters’ charter’! Once criminal networks realised this was an easy way to free money, on a high street near them, the staff on the front line were left to deal with a huge rise in organised groups stealing repeatedly and in bulk, and with ever growing violence and threats as they did their best to stop it. There are, finally, some moves underway to reverse the ill-judged changes, including making violence against shop workers a specific new offence and rolling back the £200 threshold, but this will take time.
Wandsworth’s statistics for retail crime echo the nationwide trend with it doubling (although still lower than both the London average, and the average for similar inner suburban Boroughs), although as ever, staff have a business to run which means only the most serious cases are reported.
We have, for years, reported on our local retailers, and we’re well aware that many of them have found themselves as unwilling front line participants on this wave of crime. It’s a cost, a stress, and a risk to our traders. We’ve seen persistent thieves targeting shops several times a day, staff in Sainsbury’s threatened with knives, gangs running into the Coop to grab whatever they can, aggressive thieves fighting with the security at Asda, staff injured with tools and sharp implements when they tried to stop thieves, people running out with boxes & baskets stacked with bottles of wine, coffee, energy drinks, you name it. One boy was robbed at knifepoint inside one of the supermarkets! Security costs money, but without it our traders are rather at the mercy of whoever walks through the door.
There has been action by retailers to try and stem the tide of crime. The area round the station has a coordinated security presence between the shops, with a communication network linking different store security teams and professional guards, which is pretty good at spotting, tracking, and catching persistent thieves – the likes of T.K. Maxx’s security don’t muck about! Inside stores, CCTV has been hugely upgraded to include facial recognition and flag thieves to staff, higher value items are no longer out on the open shelves, easily resellable items like spirits, wines, coffee, powdered milk, steaks and cheese is increasingly locked in boxes or tied up in security nets, doors are sometimes on timed entrance arrangements, aisles are adjusted to make it easier to see what customers are doing, security are more visible and there for more of the day… but this is not an easy problem to fix while stores are on their own.
This is all mainly an issue for shops but even in the cafes we’ve seen some lower-level issues, both on the theft and the antisocial behaviour front – whether the case of the man pictured above who broke in to nine different shops after closing time over a few weeks, mostly by forcing the doors, or the somewhat disturbed man who tries to walk away with the tip jars in our Cafes! As we’ve reported previously, a late night theft was the final straw for local Cafe Social Affair. Even a hairdressers on St John’s Road has seen someone walk out with the entire stock of hair straighteners.
This is not an easy problem to solve – but things could be improved – with tougher sentencing to remove the ‘free for all’ on shoplifting as a good start. As ever, some of it is a sign of deeper and more intractable problems – it’s been estimated that about 70% of shop theft is committed by frequent users of Class A drugs who are stealing to fund a drug addiction, and as a result the crimes they commit – including persistent and high-volume theft – become more volatile, desperate, and potentially violent. Effectively tackling this group of repeat offenders would have a large impact on reducing retail crime, and its pervasive impact on society.
A case study: The Co-op’s headache with retail crime
The Co-op’s managing director Matt Hood has been a particularly high profile campaigner on the issue of retail crime, and on what could be done about it. His network of 2,500 stores lost seventy million pounds to shoplifting last year; the Co-op recorded 336,270 incidents of shoplifting and anti-social behaviour in 2022, not far off 1,000 cases a day. He’s been campaigning for shoplifting to be taken more seriously by the government & the police, pointing out that 80% of reported incidents result in an arrest in Scotland (where thefts under £200 aren’t ignored), compared to just 10% south of the border. He’s especially concerned about the impacts on his employees: every day four of his team are attacked and a further 116 colleagues are seriously abused, and a lot of staff we know feel unsafe at work.
Lavender Hill’s Coop is fairly calm by the standards of the Co-op nationally – but it’s still had plenty of incidents, and is a good example of how the growth in shoplifting is affecting our businesses. It’s been open a few years, and it’s your standard suburban supermarket – clean and tidy, a decent mix of fresh food, a small bakery offer, coffee machine and cash machine, all the usual staples, helpful but overworked staff. It’s what would expect – not cheap but decent and convenient, open long hours, a neighbourhood supermarket with a bit of an ethical focus, employing staff who mostly also live quite locally.
The internal layout of this branch has been a bit of a headache from the outset, as it makes it hard to manage: self service tills on one side far from the door, the service kiosk is out of view of some of the tills, a big structural column means you can’t see the door from the till, meat is over at the opposite corner, coffee’s in the middle, alcohol is in an alcove invisible from almost every angle (for those who know the store: the underlying shape of the premises is square and sensible, so why the designers didn’t put the kiosk to the right of the door, with the tills at the back right, and the higher value stuff opposite in sight of them, is a bit of a mystery). Non-frosted windows behind the till area allow ne’er-do-well to check staff locations from the outside. It tends to be slightly understaffed, with 2-3 people on duty managing the stock deliveries, the counter tills, the Deliveroo pickups, the parcel collection, the self service alerts, and facing up the shelves.
The strange configuration, coupled with low staffing levels, means the team do their best but just aren’t able to keep an eye on who is gaining access and what they are doing. There are regular thieves who run out with baskets full of things they can resell, and there have been some cases of groups swarming the store to take as much as they can. A young local woman who’s visibly addicted to meth runs out with stacks of meat, and sells them (in direct sight of the store) on to a man waiting on a Lime bike just down Ashley Crescent, who presumably goes on to resell it to the more dubious takeaways – and the staff may not even notice until they spot the empty shelf. The most consistent headache has been the small groups of aggressive people – the same ones who cause trouble around the station – who steal what they can and get violent when confronted, which has led to staff being hurt, luckily not seriously. Our store even made the national news after one incident last year, of a man brazenly stealing a huge bag full of alcohol and being aggressive to the staff, was caught on camera. Ultimately these neverending incidents really wear down even the most enthusiastic store teams, and it’s to the staff’s credit (here, and in the other supermarkets who also see plenty of this) that they continue to run a decent shop in the face of all this.
Head office is well aware of the issues affecting the chain, and has taken some action to help our local store. They’ve invested in much better CCTV, and in a headset communications system so the staff can communicate and tip each other off – as well as their on-call security service – if someone looks like trouble. As others like Tesco have done, they have fitted a secured till area with locked access, so that staff are safe in the evening and to keep the highest value stock – cigarettes, vapes, spirits… – somewhere it can’t be snatched if the staff are elsewhere. This has had some success (though there was one raid where the staff were held hostage and had to hand over the behind-the-tills items). Other stores in more crime-ridden locations have also seen live-streaming body cameras (which were apparently quite effective), and hidden safety call devices for the staff.
What they haven’t done on Lavender Hill, despite the store’s staff asking repeatedly, is provide any form of visible door security guard. The Co-op only have a small security provision, and they treat it as a ‘flexible guarding model’ and focus it on the busiest and roughest locations. Security guards only have limited powers to stop thieves but if they are qualified and insured they can be very effective; the Co-op’s own security guard team – some of whom are undercover – detained 3,361 criminals last year. But put simply, other branches have more problems than ours – we just don’t see enough trouble to have security. This is in stark contrast to Tesco, Asda and Sainsbury’s who have security most of the time, and it makes the Co-op peculiarly vulnerable. The Co-op’s somewhat unusual security arrangements are explained in some detail in a note they provided to Parliament recently (16-page pdf): they have a camera and headset call system to a specialist back office organisation, run with security form MITIE, who can start watching any incident in real time, bring in the police, and communicate directly via the store’s loudspeaker system, and assemble a full evidence pack for prosecution – which sounds great, but the fact that there’s a remotely based set of security experts on the cameras doesn’t make you feel much safer when you’re out on the floor alone on a late shift hoping trouble doesn’t come through the door. Remote monitoring just doesn’t give the same deterrent to trouble as a big tough-looking guard on the door with a security pass on his arm who recognises trouble when he sees it and knows who’s not allowed in! The impact of this spills out on to neighbouring streets, as the Co-op’s low-security branches become a sort of magnet for ruffians from far and wide, and support all manner of illicit trades. It’s all frightening and demoralising for staff, and it’s putting the viability of our local shops in danger.
Our branch has its problems, and it really needs a sustained security presence. But it’s one of the ‘good’ stores: the Coop’s nightmare elsewhere in the country is severe. Not far away, the Co-op by Battersea Bridge saw an average of at least one police-reported shoplifting incident every day over the three months from January to March. We understand other stores are much, much worse, with some in Stockwell and Camden – but also in some far flung suburbs – struggling to even keep the shelves stocked because theft is so high, and the stock system doesn’t know what to replenish. And while the Co-op has some specific challenges linked to its idiosyncratic security arrangements, chances are similar stories are currently playing out at your nearest Tesco Express, Sainsbury’s Local, Asda Express or corner shop. We can’t go on like this.
Our local police team
The good news is that we have a proper local police team looking after Lavender Hill! Sometimes they’re bobbies on the beat, sometimes they’re out there more subtly – but they are there. We’re lucky to have a small team for each ward, who have a good local knowledge and tend to know a lot more than you think about what is going on behind the scenes.
The area south of the street, including Clapham Junction, is covered by the Lavender Ward police team, made up of Aneka Jones (Police Sergeant), Emily Hale (Police Constable), Simon Sadasivan (Police Constable) and Syed Rahman (PCSO). They hold regular opportunities to say hello and compare notes. The Lavender team is hosting a Cuppa with a Copper at Pique (the local supplier of quality coffee & food that we’ve reported on previously), at 171, Lavender Hill. It’s running from 1-2pm on Monday 30th September 2024, with another on Tuesday the 1st October. They also have a Whatsapp group for the community, which is a broadcast of useful information rather than a place to report crimes!
Most of the area North of the street is covered by the Shaftesbury and Queenstown team, made up of Steven Hales (Police Sergeant), Charley Shearing (police constable) and Sophie Chin (Police Community Support Officer). They also have adrop in meeting, over at Cafe Santacruzense, 4 Condell Rd, Nine Elms, London SW8 4JA, at 11am on Friday 27th September.
In both cases the key point we’d stress here is – please report crimes and concerns! The teams are keen to help and they value the input we make, and submitting reports is straightforward to do online. Reporting smaller crimes may feel like a waste of time, and you may well get an automated ‘there was no follow up and the case got closed’ after a few days (or even, in some rather unusual cases where third party reports have bene fed in, a note that says that ta report couldn’t be acted on because the victim was unknown) – but that doesn’t mean that the input hasn’t gone to the team and been noted and used, and it does matter. Our police don’t usually just steam in and throw the crooks red handed & toss them in jail – they build up evidence and case information, and if and when they get enough to secure a conviction, they pounce. Unless we feed in the smaller crimes, there’ll be nothing to go on when it comes to the big crimes.
Quarterly Ward Panel meetings are another key moment for our local forces. They’re usually an in-person meeting in the early evening, but sometimes with an additional dial-in option. They’re an opportunity to meet the team, hear what has been going on behind the scenes, share constructive thoughts and concerns from the perspective of the people who live and work in the area. They are also a chance to agree vote on should be the priorities for the next three months. There’s not enormous room for manoeuvre – the results tend to be a mix of police team and resident priorities rather than “finding out who stole my bike” – but they are the place where our police see what matters most to us. They are usually joined by our local Councillors, as well as Council representatives for relevant issues – recently the focus has included antisocial behaviour / theft / criminals in the streets, the problems of theft and violence affecting some of our traders, and wider activities that could maybe help address ongoing challenges such as the Lavender Hill rough sleepers hub and how it will be managed. If you’re interested in learning about what’s going on, feeding in your thoughts, or just showing support for the rather thankless tasks a lot of our police teams do day in day out, we’d encourage you to attend these.
The Lavender team’s next Ward PanelMeeting is imminent – it runs from 6:30PM – 8:00PM on Thursday 19th September 2024, at Battersea Arts Centre. No need to book – just ask for the room at reception. To contact the local team and be added to their mailing list for future events, use the form here or email lavender@met.police.uk .
The Shaftesbury and Queenstown team’s next Ward Panel Meeting is also from 6:00PM – 8:00PM, Thu 19 September 2024, at the Church of St Nectarios (just north of the Dunston estate). To contact the local team and be added to their mailing list for future events, use the form here.
Crime isn’t a topic we normally cover, but we thought this one-off post might be of interest to our readers, and encourage participation in local police engagement and activity. This 7,200-word article is far longer than our usual posts, bur it’s still barely skimming the surface of this complex and multifarious topic; and we’re well aware that we’re talking about the effects, rather than the causes, of crime – where poverty, addiction, mental health, societal challenges and more all play a role. We’d welcome your thoughts on the issues covered here – contact the authors via the form here. And if our wider coverage of very local issues including retail developments, local businesses, housing projects or local history in the Lavender Hill area of Battersea is of interest, do sign up to receive new posts by email.
It’s been quite the journey for 64 Clapham Common Northside, one of the oldest houses still standing, that seems to go back to some point in the 1780s, when it was a country cottage in the fields. We first reported on it back in February, as an interesting and unusual ‘project’ house, one which had been empty for well over a decade. But it was also at the time being proposed for demolition, to make way for a modern house on the same site. The more the story gained attention, the more people investigated the history of the house – and the more we all realised that this was a properly original property! A very neglected and dilapidated one, for sure, but one with an unusually long history.
The planning application, being taken forward by the developers selling the property, didn’t get approved. We wrote about it again in June, noting that the house had yet again escaped demolition. The planning department official’s report was a classic of the genre, doing a bit of a demolition job of its own in comprehensively unpicking many of the arguments put forward to justify demolishing the building. The future of the house was nonetheless still a bit uncertain at the time though, as while demolition was off the table, it needed a fair bit of work and investment to get back to a habitable state.
Obviously the house always had stacks of potential, as a properly unique character property with plenty of charm, and sweeping views over Clapham Common. If, that is, the right people could find it and fall in love with it, rather than seeing it as a bit of clearable land to build a mansion on! Well the good news is that that seems to be exactly what’s happened. Who knows, maybe the extensive local attention it got thanks to us and others helped.
We’ve met the new owners, and we’re pleased to confirm that they’re properly interested in the history of the house, that they plan to live there rather than seeing this as a project to patch up and sell on, and are going to try to bring it back in to use in a sensitive way that brings the accommodation up to safe, comfortable modern standards without bulldozing the aspects that give this property its rather unique charm. Having explored the building in detail, and dealt with the sorts of headaches you immediately pick up on taking over a ruin like burst pipes and collapsing roofs, they have devised a plan to get it back in to a habitable state. They have subsequently applied for planning permission for works to the house, and some of the photos and illustrations in this article are from that planning application.
Obviously a key issue with the house is that it has been empty for absolutely ages! The big hole in the roof that we have previously reported on has done what holes in the roof usually do, and made a complete mess of the lower floors. Its also clear, looking at the interior, that the original internal design is long gone, leaving a dilapidated interior that was maybe last updated on the cheap in the early 1970s.
The new owners have explored the history of the property in some detail, which is reflected in the material submitted for consultation as part of the planning application for work to bring the house back in to use. This has revealed a few new old illustrations of the house, including this one from Lambeth’;’s archives which shows Northside (the later big manor house that was built, and which is now long-gone), with 64 Clapham Common Northside visible attached to the right hand side of it, right at the right hand edge of the picture shown below.
They’ve found an old map in the Parish records of St Mary’s church, which includes the larger house as well as the unusual layout of its very large garden, which as we wrote back in February was rather oddly shaped with a long passageway that ran round the back of the house next door to provide another access to the street with stables.
There’s also this illustration, which shows the big house and the attached older cottage as seen from Clapham Common. There’s a bit of doubt about which bit of the old house and cottage corresponds to the surviving property, and whether some or all of it was rebuilt in 1812. To add to the challenge, the old illustrations and maps sometimes take a bit of creative liberty, and aren’t all consistent with each other!
The works now being proposed seem, to us, to be sensible and proportionate. From the front, the look of the property will remain broadly as it is, although the roof will be raised to accommodate more space. It seems unlikely that the current roof is original, so this isn’t a great loss, and the house will retain its smaller-than-the-neighbours, original cottage appearance. The plan extract below shows the current roof height (red dotted line) and the proposed new one.
The back of the property will see the sort of mansard-type extension that is typical of the houses around Lavender Hill. These rear mansard extensions aren’t in keeping with any particular historic style, but then neither are any of the many other similar extensions on the street (almost every house has one!). The real value of this house is its appearance as seen from the Common, not from back gardens, so we don’t expect this to be controversial.
There’ll also be a small extension in to the back yard, to slightly increase the ground floor living space. The image below (which it’s worth bearing in mind is a sketch using architectural software, not a precise rendering of the end product) shows how the overall shape will evolve.
The planning application for these new changes has had a handful of comments, and in contrast to the previous application to demolish everything, this more modest proposal is seeing general support. One neighbour, who notes they have followed this building’s history for a long time, comments that we must have something done to the building, and we have only just managed to have it saved from demolishment. They feel the plan makes a lot of sense and results in very little alterations to the building – yet will mean it is saved. They like the proposed new additions to the back of the property, which seem to be set back and even if are visible will be of architectural interest, noting that the long track record of enormous extensions others in the area means they can’t see why it should be an issue to do this more modest approach.
Another notes that the plans preserve the important surviving elements of the old house, including the main side entrance and doorway, the front elevation and roof frontage, and some stone flag flooring to the hallway. They recognise that this is a difficult building to enlarge for family use, but feel the applicants have designed a scheme that largely retains the original frontage appearance and most of the important elements of the building in a sensitive way. Another person commented that it seems that this proposal is exactly what we were hoping for – a sensitive revival of building which is unusual, that the designs look attractive and will make a positive contribution to the area, and that the application seems to keep the big change to a minimum, meaning the works will be far less disruptive than having the house demolished or a basement dug. One wishes the new owners the best of luck.
So this miniseries on 64 Clapham Common Northside looks set for a happy ending. This small and unassuming house has more history than most, and has been through a lot of changes, as country cottage, dairy, staff quarters, and many more functions – and as the new owners note, has been adjusted and adapted over its lifetime to accommodate the servants, cows, booksellers, bricklayers, gardeners, doctors and other local notables who lived there over the years. Above all, this is the little house that refused to die – more than once! The support of its many neighbours and – by the looks of it – its proud new owners, mean it’s survived again. We’re pleased to see it looks set to keep going for another generation while keeping a bit of our local history alive.
The first article we wrote about this house is here, and the second (which has a lot more abut the history of the building, and also covers the previous planning application to demolish the building) is here. The new owners’ planning case is number 2024/2558, it’s open for comment on Wandsworth planning website until the 11th September (though later comments are often also taken in to account). If this was interesting you may also want to see our wider articles on local history, or on planning and development in the Lavender Hill area, or to sign up to receive new posts by e-mail.
Lavender Hill has a smart and unusual new supermarket. Back in March we reported that the large premises at 207-217 Lavender Hill (next to the junction with Latchmere Road & Elspeth Road) was set to become a new supermarket. And sure enough, Harley’s Food Hallhas now opened its doors, and we’ve been impressed by the effort that has gone in to the business. This article gives a brief tour of the new venture.
Harley’s is an independent family-owned business, and this is their first store. They team behind Harley’s are well aware that they’re a couple of minutes’ walk from the largest and most profitable branch of Asda in inner London, and that there’s no point duplicating what they offer – so while there is a convenience offer covering the obvious staples you would expect to find in a local supermarket, they have also pushed the boat out on more unusual and interesting foods that you won’t find in the likes of Asda or a typical corner shop.
There’s also a general emphasis on quality – as well as on sustainable, ethical and responsible suppliers. You’ll find a mix of fresh fruit and vegetables with some less-seen options which on our isit included passionfruits, yellow courgettes and unusual tomatoes (and it’s worth noting that there’s a bit more in place now than you’ll see in our photos, which were taken on the first day of trading during the soft launch, where the produce was still arriving).
The shelf-edge prices, which were still a work in progress at the time, are all in place now as well.
There’s a particularly large selection of interesting jams and spreads, going well beyond the usual suspects – as well as a comprehensive range of dairy free, gluten free and vegan produce.
Our March article noted that this was going to become a Nisa. While there is some link to Nisa group (which provides services to a wide range of independent retailers, some of which trade under the Nisa brand), this is quite a departure from the stores that trade under the Nisa brand – Harley’s are using Nisa as one of their service providers and wholesalers, but are sourcing from far and wide to generate a wider selection of produce.
Interesting chocolates, crisps and snacks are also well represented, with quite a mix of brands and products you won’t find anywhere else on the street.
On the ‘interesting crisp based snacks’ front, you can expect to find the whole of the Tyrrells and Manomasa ranges, as well as Quinoa chips, Mister Free’d, and half a dozen other ranges.
Over at the chilled section there’s a broad mix of fresh pastas, soups, hams and dried meats, as well as an assortment of smoked salmon. The frozen section includes regular and non-dairy ice creams.
Pretty much every conceivable type of milk is on offer, as well as a decent mix of yoghurts, creams and wider dairy produce.
For many years this large unit was an estate agent, Winkworth.
After they rationalised their branches it briefly reopened as Noble Estates (another estate agent, who also have a branch in Clapham Old Town) but that all seemed to go badly wrong within just a few months, and the unit was quickly repossessed by the landlord, with notes taped to the door giving notice that various bits of furniture and a photocopier left behind would be sold unless they were claimed.
There’s been a pretty comprehensive refit since to create an impressively clean and smartly presented store. The ceiling is dark grey – which is a shopfitter’s classic approach – a relatively cheap but pretty effective way of making somewhere look smart and hiding the operational infrastructure it takes to run a modern grocers’ in plain sight. There was also work to install a refrigeration plant to service the store, much of which has been accommodated in a basement lightwell next to the premises.
It’s of course a fully licensed premises, so in addition to a bewildering range of soft drinks and juices, from the cheap & cheerful to quite high end, there’s a range of wines, beers and spirits.
Harley’s Food Hall is an impressive effort and it does bring something a bit different to Lavender Hill. It’s early days but there’s already a steady trade at Harley’s. Their opening is part of a small wave of interesting food retailers arriving in Clapham Junction, coming hot on the heels of the opening of Prezzemolo & Viltale near the station (which we reported on a couple of months ago), with a strong offer built around Italian produce, as well as a cafe whose success has (judging from the expansion in seating and the crowds it sees) significantly exceeded expectations. Clapham Junction was also the location of the flagship new-look Marks & Spencer foodhall, which has apparently been very successful and led to the concept tested here being rolled out widely including at Battersea power station, and now Brixton. Maybe sensing the increasing competition on their doorstep, including from Whole Foods Market who have gradually expanded their Lavender Hill presence, Waitrose is rumoured to be finally planning a somewhat overdue refurbishment of their branch on St John’s Hill, which is frankly feeling a bit dilapidated.
Harley’s is a good development for the street’s retail offer, and brings a lot of interesting foods to the area! The team are keen to meet their new neighbours and open to ideas on what to stock – so do visit and explore if you haven’t already, and spread the word on this new opening by an independent trader.
Harley’s Food Hall, 207-217 Lavender Hill, London SW11 5SD, 07447 002608, hello@harleysfoodhall.co.uk, open daily. We post from time to time on retail developments in the Lavender Hill area of Battersea, London – if you found this of interest you may want to see our other recent posts on retail and on food and drink in the area, or to sign up to receive new posts by email.
The 1880s were quite a big moment for Battersea. The railway had arrived, bringing with them an explosion of development – with houses, streets, entire neighbourhoods being built. There was a lot of money around, and everything and anything seemed possible. Which maybe explains how, for just a few years, we hosted our very own version of Crystal Palace.
The Albert Palace, pictured above, was an enormous hall made made mainly of glass and steel, facing the south side of Battersea Park where the lake is, with its back facing Battersea Park Road. It had a vast central hall nearly 500 feet long, with space for displays and exhibitions, and a space designed to accommodate an orchestra. A separate concert room, the Connaught Hall, was attached at the western end. Even in the late 1880s no visitor attraction was complete without a cafe and gift shop, so the other end included a large tea room. All in, it was about half the size of the Crystal Palace, though a later phase was planned to extend it further.
It all came about because of an ingenious bit of recycling. This was a time when big exhibitions in purpose built buildings were very much in fashion, and one of them had been the Dublin International Exhibition of Arts and Manufactures in 1865, housed in a huge, but temporary, glass and steel structure. After the exhibition (which attracted nearly a million visitors) was over William Holland, a larger-than-life entrepreneur and entertainer who had successfully run several large venues including the Alhambra on Leicester Square and the Surrey Theatre in Blackfriars Road, spotted an opportunity to build something even bigger and more spectacular – a real People’s Palace. In 1882 he bought the whole building, dismantled it, and shipped it over the Irish Sea to be reassembled in Battersea. The Battersea Park site wasn’t a completely new choice either – it had originally proposed by Prince Albert for the relocation of the Crystal Palace itself after its run in Hyde Park ended (though it eventually made it to Sydenham).
The back wall, facing what’s now Lurline Gardens, didn’t look out on much so was faced with Bath and Portland stone. That was also recycled, but from a more local source – William bought the materials from the old Law Courts at Westminster, which were in the process of being demolished and replaced with the bigger and better Royal Courts of Justice on the Strand.
William Holland equipped the new Palace with a large garden to the south and west, which was designed by Sir Edward Lee, and included fountains, a conservatory and a bandstand. These included a children’s playground, and would typically see lots of events run in the day, including gymnastic shows, a diving bell, and ballooning (and it’s worth remembering that the site right next door was soon to become a hot air balloon factory, and one of the birthplaces of modern aviation, as we’ve written about previously). The north side also had planted terraces either side of the main entrance on Prince of Wales Road. Our sketch below shows the general layout, superimposed on what’s there now.
Although the new Palace was mostly made of recycled materials, this very much wasn’t a project done on the cheap, with considerable attention placed on getting the details right. As a sign of the level of intent, William brought in Christopher Dresser to design some of the interior of the new venue. He’s now widely known as one of the first and most important independent designers and a pioneer of the British Art Nouveau style, responsible for a lot of designs that were way ahead of their time (to the extent that some of his metalwork designs are still in production, such as his oil and vinegar sets and toast rack designs, now manufactured by Alessi).
There aren’t all that many surviving pictures of the interior. We have found one contemporary wood engraving, pictured below, from the Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. It includes the organ, which had 4000 pipes and was one of the largest in the world, and the central hall (as well as some views of the Palace from the lake in Battersea Park, where the separate structure at the end housing the Connaught Hall is visible). This print is currently on sale at The Map House.
With everything assembled, William held the Grand Opening in June 1885, with a concert in the Connaught Hall, and about 5,000 visitors. Unfortunately it was a rainy day – so the main focus ended up being on the indoor exhibition stands, aquarium, picture-gallery, and numerous tea rooms, dining rooms and and bars. The Times reported on it in June 1885:
OPENING OF THE ALBERT PALACE. Despite the bad weather, which probably kept many would-be visitors at home, a large number of persons found their way to Battersea Park on Saturday, for the opening of the Albert Palace. The Palace is a handsome glass building of the Crystal Palace type, standing in extensive and prettily-laid out grounds, of which however the rain on Saturday prevented the public from making more than a cursory inspection. The interior of the building – a large nave surrounded by a gallery, which already contains the nucleus of a collection of pictures – is filled with models representing industries, cases of stuffed animals, among which a couple of splendid crocodiles from the Nile are particularly noticeable, and stalls for the sale of various articles, useful, ornamental, and indigestible. The exhibits as yet incomplete, as is but natural, but among them the beauty of several perfect river gigs and canoes seemed to attract general sympathy and admiration. Scattered here and there about the building are numerous refreshment buffets, tea stalls, &c., and there are several dining rooms, both in the building and in the grounds. This [refreshments] department is in the hands of Messrs. Bertram and Roberts.
The following months saw regular concerts by the permanent orchestra and organist, who were joined by the Viennese Ladies Orchestra. There seems to have been a bewildering range of attractions including cat, bird and flower shows, and all manner of novelties including appearances by a ‘Giant Baby’! The Hall was also used as a general exhibition hall, conservatory, concert hall, aviary and hippodrome.
In one of the stranger promotional ventures, Arthur Lasenby Liberty, trader and the founder of Liberty’s department store on Regent Street, tried to bring a taste of India to Battersea by building an Indian Village inside the venue, complete with 40 silk spinners, weavers, carpet makers, metal workers, sandalwood carvers, embroiderers, a sitar maker, singers, dancers, jugglers and snake-charmers he had brought to the UK from India.
The original programme below for a day in April 1886 is maybe more typical of what was on offer. There’s a mix of entertainment from noon that the crowd could explore alongside the many exhibits and food and drink options, leading on to a general variety entertainment show in the early evening. The picture gallery includes Views of Old London, and a Collection of Modern Paintings. At 1pm and 6pm there are organ recitals in the Connaught Hall, at 2pm there’s a military band, at 5pm there’s a trio of Canadian skaters at the west end of the nave, but the main event kicks off at 7 with bands, jugglers, comedians and comediennes and dancers, equilibrists, French chansonettes, gymnasts, acrobats, character vocalists, and (in a sign that this was 1886) what are described as “American Negro Performers”, all wrapped up at the end by the Palace Band and a rendition of the National Anthem.
The programme – which has a picture of William Holland on the cover – also advertises steam boat fares from pretty much every pier in London, with tickets including admission to the Albert Palace. It also notes that there’s a well equipped reading room with all the daily papers, with arrangements to dispatch telegrams, as well as a everything you’d need to write letters (hopefully telling people how great the Palace is) and a postbox with five collections a day. This programme is currently on sale at Michael Kemp Bookseller if you’d like to own a bit of almost forgotten local history, and a similar one is on display until February 2025 at the London Archive in Farringdon (in an exhibition with free access).
The back page of the programme sets out the future events, including all manner of concerts, a series of Grand Firework Displays, a Temperance Fete featuring Old English Sports and Pastimes, a Grand Bicycle, Tricycle and Athletic Exhibition and Races (accompanied by a meeting of the champion cyclists of Great Britain). In May the outdoor illuminations of the site would be opened, and the site would offer balloon ascents.
It also sets out the future plans to develop the Palace and its entertainment offer further – with a considerable enlargement of the Fine Art Galleries, a series of flower and fruit shows (including a strawberry show and feast), a show of domestic pets (which included a category for poultry as well as the more obvious dogs, cats and birds), and a plan to build a grand circus in the grounds ‘in which high class entertainments shall be given, similar to those originated and so successfully produced by Mr William Holland, during the last two winter seasons at Theatre Royal, Covent Garden’. William also planned to develop a spacious billiard room with three tables, and to further develop the children’s playground.
It also confirms that ‘The palace and grounds will be magnificently illuminated by the electric light and gas, with, in extra Fete days, myriads of variegated Japanese lanterns and oil lamps’. The electric lighting was implemented in 1888, but this led to more than a few headaches for William as the place he bought the lighting from (the Jablochkoff and General Electricity Company) had a design that was suspiciously similar to the lighting that had been patented by their rivals the Edison and Swan United Electric Light Company. The latter took both William and his supplier to court, they lost the case for patent infringement but did secure an injunction preventing further use of the designs.
It caught the popular imagination at first, and regularly saw over 20,000 visitors on weekends. But problems quickly emerged. One of the bigger headaches was that the palace was expensive to visit, compared to the large – and, importantly, free – park next door. William had bet everything on attracting people from all over south London, in much the way that Battersea Park itself was already attracting crowds – but while the visitors certainly came, they did so in insufficient numbers to cover the huge costs of running the vast venue. Finances became strained, and in 1888 – just three years after it opened – it closed.
William Holland, as the owner and manager of the Albert Palace, lost £30,000 on the venture, a staggering sum at the time. He’d thrown everything at this hugely ambitious venture, and its swift collapse must have hurt. But he was clearly born and bred a showman, and he didn’t give up easily. He moved north and went on to undertake a significant redevelopment of the Blackpool Winter Gardens. Using what remained of his personal fortune he first stepped in save the theatre from bankruptcy. Armed with a motto of Give ’em what they want!, he then went on to become one of the greatest managers in the history of the Winter Gardens. With three decades of theatre management under his belt, and a huge contact book, he introduced the same eclectic mix of Victorian Variety that had proved popular in the summer programmes of the London music halls he had managed, aiming to offered a sense of upmarket luxury to all classes. Ever the showman, he became well known for his stunts to draw the crowds, including placing parrots in strategic places around the town trained to advertise his latest must-see attraction. He redesigned the gardens to include an opera house and a ballroom, while also rethinking its target clientele to cater for the working class demographic, with an all day admission price and fixed ‘one shilling dinner’ that proved very successful.
The now-empty Battersea building, meanwhile, faced an uncertain future, as it got tangled up in legal disputes. It had become a popular local landmark and many tried to save it, with the Vicar of Battersea heading up an Acquisition Committee. But this would be complicated as any buyer would have to take it subject to the lease which, technically, still belonged to the original developers – the Albert Palace Association. That company was now in liquidation and taking the lease on would mean taking on a lawsuit.
So the grand palace, installed just a few years earlier, slowly decayed and became a ruin. Many of the once spectacular windows were broken and pigeons started to take over the interior. It was finally demolished five years later, with the entire contents of the building put up for auction in 1894 including wrought and cast iron, piping, ornamental gratings, boilers, toilets, bricks, plate glass, joists and beams, staircases, pictures and plaster casts. The grand organ, one of the largest in the world with its 4000 pipes, survived and eventually ended up in Fort Augustus Abbey in Scotland, where – having been electrified and reduced in scale to fit a more normal sized building – it’s still working.
The cleared land was then leased to a local developer, C.J. Knowles, who we’ve written about before as he also developed the original houses along Cedars Road. Mr Knowles had wanted to get hold of the land for some time, initially to build large villas. There was less land available now, so to make the sums add up he instead developed a series of tall mansion blocks facing the park.
Albert Palace Mansions and Prince of Wales Mansions now stand on the site of the Palace itself, while its adjacent pleasure gardens became York Mansions. The new mansion blocks were designed to recreate the splendour of similar buildings north of the river in Chelsea, and attract a higher class of resident. It seemed to work – the mansion flats with their commanding views over the park were a new type of residence that was taken up by modern thinking people with comfortable incomes, while the traditional housing nearby were increasingly shared by multiple families of more limited means. A somewhat intellectual and artistic community developed there from the outset which was alluded to in a short story by P.G. Wodehouse (The Man with Two Left Feet) and a novel by Philip Gibbs (Intellectual Mansions S.W.). Blue plaques commemorate authors G.K. Chesterton and Norman Douglas, playwright Sean O’Casey, and artist Charles Sargeant Jagger.
One bit of the pleasure gardens was converted into the Battersea Polytechnic, pictured below, which opened in 1891 to give poorer Londoners access to higher education. It became the Battersea College of Technology, and in 1966, when the college became the University of Surrey, it moved away to Guildford and the building has since then also been converted to flats.
William Holland died in 1895, in his late fifties. The Globe penned a short obituary, which noted that the Albert Palace had ended up as a rare failure on an otherwise successful career: ‘A prominent man the world amusement has passed away by the death of Mr. William Holland at Blackpool yesterday. For many years he was connected with London places of amusement, including the Alhambra, the Surrey Theatre, the Royal and Canterbury music-halls, and the Albert Palace. The last-mentioned was an unpleasant experience for him, as he lost £30,000 there. To recoup his fortunes he went to the Winter Gardens at Blackpool, which he made one of the most attractive places of resort in the North. He was born 1837; his early experiences, like those of many other entertainers, was as a travelling showman.’
The Albert Palace lives on in the name of one of the mansion blocks, but today it’s just another quiet street near the park. There’s very little sign of the drama and excitement that the site once had, when it was one of London’s top entertainment venues. If William’s big project had survived, chances are this bit of Battersesa would have been a very different place.
This is part of an occasional series of posts on history of the area round Lavender Hill in Battersea, London. To receive email updates on new posts sign up here. Our local history articles are here; including posts on how this bit of Battersea was where the UK aviation industry started, on the pioneering women of Battersea’s early days (who included factory developers, social reformers, fearless pilots, celebrated artists, tenacious campaigners and ‘dangerous subversives’), and on the grand plans that could have seen a much smarter and more expensive bit of London built along the Queenstown Road. For more on the Albert Palace you may wish to see Chris Van Hayden’ article here, an article by the South London press here, or Battersea Banter’s post here. Thanks also to the team at The London Archive which is where we first found out about this bit of Battersea history.
They’ve been on the brink of collapse for years! There are cracks around the walls at the back, brambles have taken over the access paths, someone stole most of the roof, and the whole building has a slight lean to it. The inside’s not much better – for those who’re confident enough to venture past the ‘dangerous structure’ signs scattered around the building it’s been a sort of store for groundskeeper junk – bent goalposts, burst footballs, abandoned shopping trollies. The old toilet building on Clapham Common westside – in the corner of the forest, nearest to Clapham Junction – closed decades ago, due to the usual combination of vandalism and dwindling maintenance budgets. The fact that this building was the very epicentre of one of the most notorious cottaging spots in the country, at a time when our LGBT community was a lot more in the shadows, probably played in to the decision too.
But for all of the decay and dereliction, there’s still an undeniable charm to the building, which was built in a country cottage style, to match the rural and wild nature of this bit of the Common. It still has the chimney from when it had a fireplace to provide heating. Its age is uncertain – it’s one of the older buildings still standing on the Common itself, dating to somewhere between 1895 and the 1930s. The image below shows the interior, where the old facilities are still (more or less) in place.
In 2011, there was an attempt to knock it all down. Lambeth, who manage the whole Common despite this part being in Wandsworth, applied for permission for complete demolition. They clearly weren’t keen on what they described as “redundant brick built toilets”, arguing that it had been empty for 15-20 years, had suffered from vandalism and structural defects, and was ‘beyond repair’. They proposed to replace it with two steel portakabin-type changing rooms with an attached bathroom.
Lambeth’s application was a pretty shambolic one to be honest – it looked like a Friday afternoon job, with no real explanation of why the existing building was considered doomed, and (rather strangely) no details of the proposed appearance, position or layout of the new structures either, other than that they would be painted green! It saw 13 neighbour objections, with arguments that there was no need to destroy the building when the new structures could be put next to it (or indeed anywhere else in the woods where they’d be less of an eyesore), that the building (and the matching changing rooms next to it that had recently been refurbished) were an elegant structure that was part of the Common, and that contributed to the conservation area, and that the building wasn’t anywhere near as wrecked as the application suggested and could be rescued for cafe or other public use.
Wandsworth’s conservation & design advisor said that the change from a low-key building that upholds the character of the conservation area, and which could be refurbished and adapted or extended, to a harsh and industrial portakabin-type structure, should be refused. Wandsworth’s planning department supported the idea of upgrading facilities – but also felt that there wasn’t a convincing case for knocking the building down rather than repairing it, especially as it was in a conservation area. They recognised it was in ‘a decrepit state’ and seemed to be leaning at one end, but they noted it would be attractive if it was refurbished, and that Lambeth hadn’t really offered up any evidence that the structure was beyond economical repair.
They also felt that the proposed replacement structure was ‘not considered to be acceptable’: for starters it wasn’t specified if it was temporary or whether it was a prelude to a more permanent replacement, plus it would be an eyesore completely out of keeping with their environment, and in any case their dimensions didn’t look suitable for a sports team in any event. The final report was pretty damning, it’s written in quite diplomatic terms but you can sense the planning official sighing and wondering who thought such a weak application would get through. They concluded that “planning permission and conservation area consent should not be granted, until adequate justification is provided for the demolition of the existing building, and suitable replacement facilities are proposed.“
Lambeth tried again the next year, this time describing the portakabins as ‘temporary’, but the second application was later withdrawn (presumably as they got wind that another refusal was on the way) and never got to the final decision stage. And at that point Lambeth lost patience with the project and pretty much closed the book on the old building, leaving it to an uncertain future. Not much happened for a long time, though it’s at some point after this that a fair bit of the tiled roof mysteriously went missing, and was covered with a plastic tarpaulin.
A full ten years later, there was another brief spark of interest: flushed with their success at re-letting the Skate Park cafe for an astronomical level of rent (which as we reported then had a great deal of money spent on upgrading it to become a new outdoor-focussed branch of Megan’s), and conversion of the central La Baita cafe to a new branch of Pear Tree Cafe (which we also reported on), Lambeth explored if anyone wanted to take on a ten year lease on the building. As a building on Common land, the lease would include an unusual condition that ‘The premises must be accessible to the general public providing services or activities of a recreational, social or educational character benefiting the Park‘. There would be a lengthy rent-free period in exchange for the new tenant getting the building back in to a usable condition. As we reported at the time, we didn’t think that Sanderson Weatherall, the estate agents advertising this property (whose video is linked above) would exactly be seeing queues round the block, given the amount of repair work involved – this was going to be a difficult place to let! But the place did have potential. The number of people walking past here on a typical weekend is vast, it’s right next to one of the wealthiest and densest residential catchment areas in London, there’s a surprisingly large amount of enclosed space around the building that could be put to use or even used for a small extension, and it remained a pretty elegant building.
Thousands of people read our article – but no one leased the property. We started to wonder if the place was, after all, doomed. But then in a surprise move that no one really saw coming, Lambeth themselves, the ones who were itching to knock it all down 13 years ago, had a change of heart. They decided the building wasn’t beyond economic repair after all – but would make an ideal premises for a new café (just as Wandsworth had suggested back in 2011). They got the builders in, who haven’t wasted any time getting the leaning wall and chimney straightened up, damaged bricks carefully replaced, the whole building cleaned and repointed, and the roof repaired.
There will be new timber framed windows, including a hatch for outdoor counter service, and the interior will be opened up (as shown in the floorplan design above) to create a cafe with an internal WC, as well as an accessible one that can be accessed from the terrace. The existing railings around the edge of the site will be refurbished, and a small area between the building and the path will be resurfaced (partly with sandstone, partly with permeable resin-bound gravel) to allow for an external seating area. The planning application notes that the small scale of the venture will mean it doesn’t detract from or compete with, the town centre businesses on Battersea Rise, but that getitng the building repaired and back in to use will create a space that is a useful asset for Clapham Common, directly serving the park users and making the Common a better public space.
It’s scrubbing up really well, as our photos of the work in progress show. Just think – that this could by now have been a set of green steel sheds! The similar ones by the old gravel pitches below show what we’ve luckily avoided.
But the newly-enthusiastic Lambeth went further. Probably with half an eye on the huge volumes of trade that the other two upgraded-and-extended cafes on the Common are now doing, and the proximity to the busy but café-less playground at the Battersea corner of the Common, they saw the potential for income. The Clapham Common Management Advisory Committee have reported that rather than leasing it out, Lambeth is considering operating the cafe themselves. The planning application makes a slightly different suggestion that the Cafe will be operated by a private tenant under a lease agreement with the Council.
Opening hours have yet to be agreed, but there will be a requirement to open all day on weekends and holidays between Easter and end of October, and more limited weekday and winter hours operation (typically opening at 8am, and closing at 4 in winter – but with the ability to run to 8-9pm on summer nights, and an ability to open to 11pm up to 15 times a year).
This looks like a happy ending. We’re pleased to see that Lambeth have had a change of heart and decided to invest in this bit of the Common, which was increasingly neglected, with a hint of antisocial behaviour being increasingly drawn towards the derelict-looking buildings. The new cafe should offer a welcoming space with both indoor and outdoor seating, and it feels like a realistic and sensible use of the building, which strikes the right balance between preserving the green and somewhat rural character of the Common, and making the money needed to maintain its facilities & provide services to its users. Above all it’s good to see this historic building, which looked to be doomed to further decay and ultimate demolition, being restored to the picturesque country-cottage style building it should have been all along.
Meanwhile closer to Clapham South the Bowling Green Cafe, which has been the subject of much more controversy linked to plans to convert the whole site to a Minigolf facility, is also seeing works. This building is a rather more fragile structure in the first place than the forest toilet building, and is in a similarly dreadful condition; for some time it has been too unstable to have customers inside. The team on site were doing their best to repair the roof, and we understand it is also being refurbished to be leased out as a cafe
The bowling Green pavilion next door to it currently has a slightly intriguing planning application in – for the change of use from ‘areas or places for outdoor sport or recreation’)’ to ‘Provision of education’. The proposal is so new that no details are available – in due course we’ll find out more (the reference is application 2024/2622 at wandsworth.gov.uk/planning). We did spot some minor works to repair the rather dilapidated building.
The two buildings had been jointly available for lease as a Cafe (the details are here) and it is marked as under offer. Looking at the size of the building, our best guess is that this is for the building closer to the former bowling green itself – which is larger and in a better overall condition – to be leased out as a nursery, but if you have more insight on this we’d be keen to hear from you.
We mainly cover the Lavender Hill area, but sometimes also report on developments on Clapham Common. If you found this interesting, you may want to see our previous articles on planning and development, or on shops and food & drink traders in the area. To receive new posts on lavender-hill.uk by e-mail (for free, unsubscribe anytime), sign up here.
The very last ’empty shop’ in Clapham Junction following the Covid pandemic is coming back in to use. Moss Bros used to have a store next to the way in to Clapham Junction station – which was rather handily placed for them as their headquarters was in the offices above. It did a busy trade in hiring suits and formalwear, but also sold a wider mix of clothes to the crowds of people passing by every day. Th formalwear trade was hit particularly hard by the pandemic, and the store closed as part of plans to radically slim down the store estate in a bid to keep the company alive – which seemed to work, as the company came out the other end and has even started to open a few new stores.
What was maybe more unusual is that part of the premises then sat empty for about for years. It was quickly split in two, and the first part quickly became Wasabi. The other half, several years later, is now set to become a new burger restaurant, Fat Phill’s, whose flagship offer is a ‘smash burger’ (made by smashing the ground beef onto the grill with a spatula, to give a sear on the outside of the meat, to lock in juice and flavour). They also offer loaded sandwiches, Philly cheesesteak fries, and juicy chicken tenders – all made fresh to order in an open kitchen.
Fat Phill’s was founded by Armin Vahabian, an Iranian immigrant to the Netherlands and a father of three. As Forbes reports, after getting a taste of an American burger on a visit to the US, he set out to bring that flavour home. He founded Fat Phill’s in Amsterdam in 2019, without any initial investors, and he grew it quickly: within five years he was running a chain with 17 branches. It’s clearly worked pretty well, with over $16 million in revenue in 2023.
The chain’s fast growth in the Netherlands has been helped by several enthusiastic franchisees; and the business is now planning to enter the UK market, also via a franchise agreement. Fat Phill’s UK venture will be led by a firm called Freshly Baked Ltd, who are also the people behind Auntie Anne’s pretzels, who have just under 40 stores across the UK and Ireland (the nearest to here’s a kiosk in Hammersmith). The chain is initially aiming for ‘busy London high streets’, and Clapham Junction is one of the first three UK branches. This feels like a decent choice of location, a very busy bit of the town centre, right outside a very busy railway station. Fat Phill’s aims to go on and develop around 100 branches in the next 10 years, and are currently looking for people wanting to run franchises around the UK.
The Clapham Junction branch will be quite small – maybe 1,000 square feet – with a few tables, one larger shared table, and an open kitchen with a big grill; they are presumably also aiming for a reasonably large takeaway & delivery offer. There’s currently a planning application in for some very minor works to support the conversion of the premises from what was half of a clothes shop to a restaurant, mainly including new signage, some vents and extraction equipment at the back (planning case 2024/1726 at wandsworth.gov.uk/planning if you’d like to see or comment).
Fat Phill’s Clapham Junction, 16 St John’s Hill SW11 1SA, Battersea… opening soon.We cover local developments in the Lavender Hill part of Clapham Junction. You may also want to see our recent roundup of retail comings and goings on the street, or our wider articles on retail and on food & drink in Lavender Hill & the eastern area of Clapham Junction.
Marsha de Cordova is the Labour Party candidate in the Battersea constituency for the 2024 General Election. We and our partners at Clapham Junction insider are inviting all the candidates to short interviews – so you can learn more about who they are, what they believe in, and their plans to improve Battersea and help its residents. Details of all the candidates, and the other interviews, are here.
Could you introduce yourself to our readers? I am proud to be standing for re-election as your MP for Battersea and have the chance to continue my work making Battersea the best place to live, work, and visit.
I have been determined to create a fairer and more equal society for everyone. From my career before Parliament as a disability rights campaigner, charity founder and leader, to my work as an MP, I have always sought to break down barriers.
Tell us something about you our readers may not know... My brother is a Premier League footballer [editor’s note: Bobby Decordova-Reid, who plays for Fulham]
You are now running to be elected as Labour MP for a third term. What makes the Battersea constituency, where you have lived for quite some years, special for you? It has been an honour and privilege to represent Battersea, to be your voice in Parliament and to be a champion for our community. One of the things that makes our area so special is the wonderful community spirit and infrastructure we have here.
It has been a privilege to work alongside the many individuals, and community and faith organisations that do fantastic work in the area, including supporting young people, the elderly, refugees and many others.
You held two roles as Shadow Secretary of State for Women and Equalities and previously as Shadow Minister Disabled People. In 2021 you resigned from the shadow cabinet and you said you wanted to concentrate more on your constituency. What experience do you bring as part of Keir Starmer shadow cabinet and how can it help Battersea? Serving in a shadow ministerial role enabled me to hold the government to account and develop policies which would bring transformative change to our country including for constituents here in Battersea. They continue to provide a blueprint for the kinds of changes I’d like to see.
I led Labour’s response on equalities during the pandemic and highlighted the many health inequalities that Black, Asian and Ethnic Minorities, women and disabled people faced in Battersea including leading a campaign locally to encourage take up of the covid vaccine.
With the busiest station at the heart of Battersea, public transport is used by the vast majority of people in the area. What would you like to see improved for that in Battersea? Throughout my time as an MP, I have made it my priority to improve transport and ensure it’s inclusive for all users.
We have had some huge wins here. These include saving some of our vital bus routes such as the C3; forcing the government to U-turn on their planned cuts to local rail ticket offices at Clapham Junction and Wandsworth Town; and securing funding to make nearly all our train stations in Battersea more accessible including Access for All work at Wandsworth Town station. I was also proud to be there for the opening of the Northern Line extension in North Battersea.
However, there is a lot more work to do. The Tories have u-turned on access for all funding at Battersea Park station and I will be calling for funding to be restored to make the station accessible. [editor’s note – we’ve previously posted about this project, and Marsha’s campaigning for it – the article’s here].
Clapham Junction station is one of the busiest interchange stations in the country and it needs to be redeveloped to make it fit for purpose. This includes ensuring it is fully accessible. As part of the redevelopment plans, I want to see the Northern Line extended to Clapham Junction – imagine the investment and opportunity that it will bring to our community!
Housing is also a local concern. Recently we have seen some proposal for massive schemes exceeding local plan rules – which justify their scale on the grounds that they also include a share of affordable housing. Where is the right balance between providing the social housing we need, and making sure that our urban environment remains one people want to live in? Battersea is one of the youngest constituencies in the country and has a higher amount of private and social renters than the national average.
The Tories have failed on housing and presided over continued crisis, exacerbated by their disastrous policies. Particularly impactful have been the scrapping of house building targets, u-turning on ending leasehold tenures, and the failure to pass renters reform legislation. Worst of all, too many residents in Battersea continue to live in unsafe housing due to fire safety which I have campaigned to address in Parliament.
I will continue to campaign for safe, secure and genuinely affordable housing in Battersea. It is necessary to increase housing supply but that must be done with community support and respond to residents wants and needs which is why I oppose the redevelopment of One Battersea Bridge. My first contribution in Parliament when I was elected in 2017 was to call for more affordable housing in the Battersea Power Station development.
Labour will build 1.5 million homes to buy and rent, end the unfair leasehold system, reform the private rental sector including ending S21 no fault evictions, and secure more protection for those affected by the cladding and fire safety crisis.
The cost of living is a real worry for many of our readers. Since Labour took control in 2022, the Council has implemented the London Living Wage for its staff and contractors. What additional measures do you believe are necessary, including in the private sector, and what do you think is the best approach for the government to provide support? We need to kickstart economic growth and move away from the low growth high tax economy which the Tories have entrenched over the past 14 years.
Their mismanagement of the economy has caused the biggest fall in living standards on record and stoked the high inflation which is affecting all of us. The price of the annual supermarket shop has risen by nearly £1,000 since the last General Election.
Labour aims to secure the highest sustained growth in the G7 to underpin our recovery. Economic growth will boost prosperity, deliver good jobs and improve living standards.
In addition, we have a number of other pledges which will dramatically improve the finances and security of households across the country. This includes delivering the biggest ever increase in social and affordable housing, offering better job security and pay with our New Deal for Workers, improving educational outcomes, and providing affordable childcare and free breakfast clubs in schools.
Our Green Prosperity Plan, a cornerstone of which will include switching on Great British Energy, will save households an average £300 annually on their energy expenses, while our warm homes plan will lower bills even further by insulating five million homes.
Issues of disability and discrimination have been central to your political engagement. What are the first changes you would advocate for under a Labour government? My lived experience has informed the two guiding principles in my life and career: namely, of making a difference and being a voice for a voiceless.
Over the past 14 years, successive Tory governments have created a hostile environment against disabled people which has resulted in unimaginable suffering for millions. The adverse effects of these policies were so severe that they have prompted investigation by the UN for violation of disabled people’s rights.
The Labour Party is and has always been the party of equality. Our many achievements include strengthening the National Disability Council with the Disability Rights Commission, ratifying the United Nations Convention on the Rights of Persons with Disabilities in 2009, and passing the Equality Act 2010 which enforces, protects and promotes the rights of disabled people.
One of the biggest issues of concern for disabled people is access to employment. We need more robust measures to achieve equality in the workplace which the Tories haven’t put in place. I will push to make sure that we deliver quickly on the full right to equal pay for disabled people; for disability and ethnicity pay gap reporting for large employers; for improving employment support and access to reasonable adjustments; and tackling the Access to Work backlog.
In the 2016 EU referendum there was a 70 % remain vote here, one of the highest in the country. There is still a lot of strong feeling about Brexit, however Labour seems to have ruled out revisiting the issue – how would you address the issue in this election? Brexit has been an unmitigated disaster and I have campaigned in Parliament to highlight the negative impact it has had locally. Our country is always stronger when we work with others, and I will continue to call for closer ties with the EU and to tear down unnecessary barriers.
Climate change and environmental issues are core concerns for our readers. Keir Starmer announced last year that Labour will not revoke the decision to drill more oil fields in the North Sea. Some people say that if all the oil in the Rosebank oil field is burnt, it will emit more CO2 than the world’s 28 poorest countries combined in a year. Additionally, Labour has renounced its pledge to spend £28 billion a year on environmental projects. Do you think that Labour can still be trusted to tackle the climate emergency? The climate emergency is the defining crisis of our time. My record shows that I take the climate and nature crisis very seriously. I have been rated “very good” for votes supporting action on climate by VoteClimate and was the Vice-Chair of the Environment APPG.
I’m committed to making Battersea even greener, cleaner and healthier. So, you can be assured that I will be continue holding any future government to account on their climate commitments.
Labour has made the climate emergency a priority. That’s why clean energy by 2030 is Labour’s second mission and we will make Britain a clean energy super-power by 2030 with our Green Prosperity Plan. We will switch on Great British Energy, create a National Wealth Fund to boost green jobs and will not issue any new oil and gas licenses.
Our track record shows we can deliver on climate and nature. We passed the Climate Change Act 2008 to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 80% by 2050 compared to 1990 levels. This was the first global legally binding climate change mitigation target set by a country.
The situation in Gaza is a significant concern for many voters, particularly in London where opinions are strong. You recently rebelled and voted against the party line on a ceasefire motion. What led you to make this decision, despite the potential risk to your prospects for Ministerial positions? Do you foresee yourself taking similar stances in the future? I have been horrified by the violence we saw on 7th October 2023 in Israel as well as that witnessed in the many subsequent months, in both Gaza and the Occupied West Bank.
The only solution to the situation is a political settlement. That’s why I voted for an immediate ceasefire in Parliament in November of last year and have continued to call for one at every available opportunity. The need for a political settlement has also prompted me to consistently call for the release of all hostages, for the removal of all restrictions to humanitarian access and aid, including restoration of UNWRA funding, the suspensions of arm transfers to Israel, immediate recognition of a Palestinian state, respect for the ICC/ICJ rulings, and the proactive upholding of international law.
If I’m re-elected, I will continue to campaign for the next government to focus its diplomatic efforts on achieving these goals and a two-state solution based on 1967 borders with agreed land swaps and Jerusalem as the shared capital. This the only viable pathway to achieving peace for Israelis and Palestinians.
Marsha’s website is here, her twitter’s here and her instagram is here. This is one of a series of interviews, where we aim to speak to all of the candidates for the Battersea constituency in the July 2024 general election, the others are here. Election day is Thursday 4th July, remember that this time you need to take Photo ID (with 22 acceptable forms of ID).
Lavender Hill for Me is a community website working to support Lavender Hill, a neighbourhood in Battersea, London and a home to about 250 shops, restaurants and small businesses. We take an active interest in developments that could improve Lavender Hill for residents, traders and visitors.